Temporal variations in beach and nearshore dynamics
Temporal variations in beach and nearshore dynamics
复制标题
海滩和近岸动态的时间变化
DOI：
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发表时间：
1977
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
E. Owens
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
E. Owens
对圣劳伦斯湾马格达伦群岛两个相邻障壁海滩的时间序列数据进行分析表明，暴露的西海岸具有明显的季节性波浪气候，而遮蔽的东海岸则是风暴波浪环境。圣劳伦斯湾的所有海岸都具有单一波浪气候区（当地产生的风暴波）的特点，这一一般概念的应用由于地形的变化而不适用于当地。这两个屏障具有独特的形态，反映了两个海岸波浪能量的不同水平和能量水平的时间变化。波浪能量水平在暴露的海岸较高，能量水平的季节性变化导致“夏季-冬季”海滩循环。在受保护的东海岸，能量水平全年变化，海滩周期是风暴和风暴后恢复期间侵蚀和加积的结果。这些暴露和遮蔽的屏障海滩之间的差异与北方半球中纬度地区其他西向和东向海滩的差异相似，这些海滩主要由西风主导。
ABSTRACT Analysis of time-series data from two adjacent barrier beaches on the Magdalen Islands in the Gulf of St. Lawrence shows that the exposed west coast has a distinct seasonal wave climate and that the sheltered east coast is a storm-wave environment. Application of the general concept that all coasts in the Gulf of St. Lawrence are characterized by a single wave climate region (locally-generated storm waves) does not apply at the local level due to variations in aspect. The two barriers have distinctive morphologies that reflect both the different levels of wave energy and temporal variations in energy levels on the two coasts. Wave energy levels are higher on the exposed coast and seasonal variations in energy levels result in a "summer-winter" beach cycle. On the sheltered east roast ave energy levels are variable throughout the year and beach cycles result from erosion and accretion during storm and post-storm recovery periods. The differences between these exposed and sheltered barrier beaches are similar to those reported for other west- and east-facing beaches in northern hemisphere mid-latitudes which are dominated by westerly winds.