“Some in Rags and Some in Jags and Some in Silken Gowns”: Textiles from Iceland’s Early Modern Period
“Some in Rags and Some in Jags and Some in Silken Gowns”: Textiles from Iceland’s Early Modern Period
复制标题
“有些衣衫褴褛，有些穿着马甲，有些穿着丝质长袍”：冰岛近代早期的纺织品
DOI：
10.1007/s10761-012-0190-1
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发表时间：
2012
影响因子：
0.8
通讯作者：
M. Smith
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
M. Smith
17世纪和18世纪丹麦的贸易垄断导致了对纺织品生产的严格规定和控制的实施，引进了配备新型卧式织机的织造车间，并有意淘汰了在经纱加重织机上生产土布的尝试。在冰岛这个引进工业化的时代，土布的命运如何？冰岛早期现代时期的考古纺织品收藏品丰富，但尚未得到充分研究。本文报告了目前对这些藏品的研究，并表明，土布并没有在中世纪晚期消亡，而是一直持续到17世纪和18世纪，此后缓慢下降。此外，现代早期的土布在结构上与中世纪早期的土布有所不同，这可能是对小冰河期气候波动加剧的反应。
The Danish trade monopoly of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries resulted in the implementation of strict regulations and controls on textile production, the introduction of weaving workshops equipped with new horizontal looms, and a deliberate attempt to phase out the production of homespun cloth on the warp-weighted loom. What was the fate of homespun cloth in this era of introduced industrialization in Iceland? Archaeological textile collections from Iceland’s early modern period are abundant though understudied. This paper reports current research on these collections and suggests that homespun cloth did not die out in the late medieval period, but that it continued into the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, declining slowly thereafter. Moreover, homespun cloth of the early modern period evolved into something that was structurally different than its earlier medieval version, possibly in response to increased climatic fluctuations during the Little Ice Age.