The circularity of potential bio-textile production routes: Comparing life cycle impacts of bio-based materials used within the manufacturing of selected leather substitutes
The circularity of potential bio-textile production routes: Comparing life cycle impacts of bio-based materials used within the manufacturing of selected leather substitutes
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DOI：
10.1016/j.jclepro.2020.125470
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发表时间：
2021-03-10
影响因子：
11.1
通讯作者：
Bezama, Alberto
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Hildebrandt, Jakob;Thraen, Daniela;Bezama, Alberto
如今，时尚业面临着越来越大的压力，要求减少以皮革为基础的时尚产品的生产对环境的影响，特别是考虑到由于动物福利标准和制革化学品的毒性而引起的公众接受问题。生物纺织业推动的另一种解决方案是引入素食和生物基皮革替代品，用于生产鞋子、手袋、服装和室内装潢，即基于天然纤维、生物基聚合物、微生物纤维素和真菌菌丝体复合产品。尽管如此，这些生物皮革产品也造成了负面的环境影响，即与土地利用的变化和集约化、水的使用以及聚合物制造中的能源使用有关。为了进一步减少影响和设计最环保的解决方案，皮革替代品产品的设计应纳入最佳做法干预措施，以提高从纤维原料供应到聚合物生产和报废后的可回收性和降解性等整个产品生命周期的循环性。这项研究评估了目前在生物时尚材料生产中实施循环设计策略时减少影响的最佳实践方案。审议了替代皮革替代品的三个案例研究，分别包括比较生命周期影响评估中的两个次级方案。使用环境足迹法对综合单分的结果表明，循环性原则(例如，纤维和糖原料的原料类型和副产品回收)在减轻环境影响方面的最佳和最差表现之间有65%的影响。此外，相对于动物皮革的临时产品替代基准，提高皮革替代品的产品耐用性将在缓解水资源短缺和气候变化的影响方面产生25%-70%的影响。这项工作最重要的结论是，替代皮革替代品可以在8-14种冲击类别中为减少冲击方面的相对环境优势做出贡献，但前提是材料替代与较少的产品更换相结合，最好还包括低冲击涂层系统和浸渍剂。(C)2020爱思唯尔有限公司。保留所有权利。
Nowadays the fashion industry faces increasing pressures to reduce the environmental impacts associated to the production of leather-based fashion products, particularly considering issues regarding public acceptance due to animal welfare standards and due to the toxicity of tanning chemicals. An alternative solution facilitated by the bio-textiles industry is the introduction of vegan and bio-based leather substitutes for the production of shoes, handbags, clothing's and upholstery i.e. on the basis of natural fibres, bio-based polymers, microbial cellulose and fungal mycelium composite products. Nonetheless, also these bio-based leather products cause negative environmental impacts i.e. related to land-use change and intensification, to water use and to energy use in polymer manufacturing. For further impact reduction and designing environmentally most sound solutions, design of leather substitute products should integrate best-practice interventions for increased circularity along the full product life cycles from fibre feedstock provisioning to polymer production and end-of-life recyclability and degradability. This study evaluated the current best practice scenarios for impact reduction when implementing circular design strategies in the production of bio-based fashion materials. Three case studies of alternative leather substitutes were considered, including respectively two sub-scenarios in a comparative Life Cycle Impact Assessment. Results for the aggregated single score using the Environmental footprint approach showed that principles of circularity (e.g. the feedstock type and by-product recovery for fiber and sugar feedstocks) have an influence of 65% between the best and worst performer in mitigating environmental impacts. Furthermore, enhancing the product durability of the leather substitutes against the temporal product replacement benchmark of animal leather would have an influence of 25-70% in mitigating impacts concerning water scarcity and climate change. The most important conclusion of this work is that alternative leather substitutes can contribute to relative environmental advantages in impact reduction in 8-14 impact categories, but only as long as the material substitution is coupled with less frequent product replacement and preferably also low impact coating systems and impregnation agents. (C) 2020 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.