Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach
Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach
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DOI:
10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97
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发表时间:
2006-09
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影响因子:
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通讯作者:
A. Borthwick;M. Ford;B. Weston;P. Taylor;P. Stansby
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文献类型:
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作者:
A. Borthwick;M. Ford;B. Weston;P. Taylor;P. Stansby
A validated one-dimensional Boussinesq–non-linear shallow water equations numerical model was used to investigate the interaction of solitary waves with beaches. The numerical model requires two adjustable parameters: the bed friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. Excellent agreement was achieved between the numerical predictions of solitary wave transformation and run-up at a plane beach with two sets of high-quality laboratory measurements: one a large number of experiments in a wave flume by Synolakis, the other in the UK Coastal Research Facility. A parameter study investigated the effect of uniform offshore water depth, bed friction and bed slope on solitary wave run-up. A uniform water depth may be associated with a continental shelf region. The non-dimensional run-up was found to be an asymptotic function of non-dimensional wave amplitude at high and low values of initial wave steepness. Both asymptotes scale as (R/ho)∼α(Ao/ho)β where R is run-up (defined as the vertical elevation reac...