Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach

Solitary wave transformation, breaking and run-up at a beach
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DOI:
10.1680/maen.2006.159.3.97
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发表时间:
2006-09
期刊:
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通讯作者:
A. Borthwick;M. Ford;B. Weston;P. Taylor;P. Stansby
A. Borthwick;M. Ford;B. Weston;P. Taylor;P. Stansby
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其他
文献类型:
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作者:
A. Borthwick;M. Ford;B. Weston;P. Taylor;P. Stansby

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使用经过验证的一维 Boussinesq 非线性浅水方程数值模型来研究孤立波与海滩的相互作用。数值模型需要两个可调参数:床层摩擦系数和破波参数。平面海滩上的孤立波变换和上升的数值预测与两组高质量的实验室测量结果达成了良好的一致性:一组是在 Synolakis 的波槽中进行的大量实验,另一组是在英国沿海研究设施中进行的。参数研究调查了均匀离岸水深、河床摩擦力和河床坡度对孤立波爬升的影响。均匀的水深可能与大陆架区域相关。发现无量纲上升是初始波陡度高值和低值时无量纲波幅的渐近函数。两个渐近线的尺度均为 (R/ho)∼α(Ao/ho)β,其中 R 是助跑(定义为垂直高程反应...
A validated one-dimensional Boussinesq–non-linear shallow water equations numerical model was used to investigate the interaction of solitary waves with beaches. The numerical model requires two adjustable parameters: the bed friction coefficient and a wave breaking parameter. Excellent agreement was achieved between the numerical predictions of solitary wave transformation and run-up at a plane beach with two sets of high-quality laboratory measurements: one a large number of experiments in a wave flume by Synolakis, the other in the UK Coastal Research Facility. A parameter study investigated the effect of uniform offshore water depth, bed friction and bed slope on solitary wave run-up. A uniform water depth may be associated with a continental shelf region. The non-dimensional run-up was found to be an asymptotic function of non-dimensional wave amplitude at high and low values of initial wave steepness. Both asymptotes scale as (R/ho)∼α(Ao/ho)β where R is run-up (defined as the vertical elevation reac...