Solitary waves on a Cretan beach
Solitary waves on a Cretan beach
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DOI：
10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1999)125:3(145
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发表时间：
1999-05-01
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Kos, A
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Monaghan, JJ;Kos, A
在本文中，我们描述了一个单独的波的上升和返回的实验和计算机模拟，它穿过浅水，然后到达由垂直墙壁支撑的干燥海滩。这里的地形与克里特岛北部海岸的海滩相似，那里狭窄的海岸平原背后是陡峭的山脉。实验表明，孤立的波浪在干燥的海滩上崩塌而没有卷曲。然后它流到垂直壁上，在那里它上升，飞溅，卷曲，最后作为湍流孔返回。在到达原始水边时，钻孔产生锯齿形的表面扰动。模拟准确地再现了实验结果。
In this paper, we describe experiments and computer simulations of the run-up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then onto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall. This topography is similar to that of beaches on the north coast of Crete, where narrow coastal plains are backed by steeply rising mountains. The experiments show that the solitary wave collapses onto the dry beach without curling over. It then flows to the vertical wall where it rises up, splashes, curls over, and finally returns as a turbulent bore. On reaching the original water's edge, the bore produces a zig-zag surface perturbation. The simulations reproduce the experiments accurately.