THE SHOALING AND BREAKING OF THE SOLITARY WAVE
THE SHOALING AND BREAKING OF THE SOLITARY WAVE
复制标题
孤立波的浅滩和破碎
DOI：
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发表时间：
2011
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
G. Kulin
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
A. Ippen;G. Kulin
孤立波通常被定义为水面上的一个单一扰动，它是相对集中和对称的，并且在忽略阻尼的情况下传播，而不改变形式。虽然它可以在实验室中很容易地产生，在观察者看来是一种纯粹的形式，但它作为一种永久形状的波的存在（183 U年由J·斯科特·罗素（J. Scott Russell）在该领域首次指出）尚未被严格的数学方法所证实。从罗素的时代起，这种波就一直是断断续续的理论和实验研究的对象。近年来，孤立波受到了更多的关注，因为它似乎表现出与接近碎波区的长周期振荡波相关的特性。在这方面，马萨诸塞州理工学院流体力学实验室进行了一项精确测量孤立波特性的实验方案。第一阶段的研究结果，包括重心、剖面、内部运动和平底阻尼等，已由J.W.每日和S. C.小斯蒂芬，1952年第三届海岸工程会议（2）。本文主要介绍孤立波浅化和破碎特性的实验研究结果。
The solitary wave is ordinarily defined as a single disturbance of the water surface, which is relatively concentrated and symmetrical and which is propagated, neglecting damping, without change of form. Although it can be readily produced in the laboratory, in what appears to the observer a pure form, its existence (first noted in the field by J. Scott Russell (1) in 183U) as a wave of permanent shape has not yet been established by rigorous mathematical methods. This wave has been the subject of intermittent theoretical and experimental investigation since the days of Russell. In more recent years, additional attention has been given to the solitary wave, since it seemed to exhibit characteristics related to those of long-period oscillatory waves approaching the surf zone. In this connection, an experimental program for the precise measurement of the characteristics of the solitary wave was undertaken at the Hydrodynamics Laboratory of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The results of the first phase of this work, including celerity, profile, internal motion and smooth-bottom damping, were reported by J. W. Daily and S. C. Stephan, Jr., to the Third Conference on Coastal Engineering in 1952 (2). The present paper is concerned principally with the results of an experimental study of the shoaling and breaking behavior of solitary waves.