A NEW FORM OF THE BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS WITH IMPROVED LINEAR DISPERSION CHARACTERISTICS .2. A SLOWLY-VARYING BATHYMETRY

A NEW FORM OF THE BOUSSINESQ EQUATIONS WITH IMPROVED LINEAR DISPERSION CHARACTERISTICS .2. A SLOWLY-VARYING BATHYMETRY
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DOI:
10.1016/0378-3839(92)90019-q
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发表时间:
1992-12-01
影响因子:
4.4
通讯作者:
SORENSEN, OR
SORENSEN, OR
中科院分区:
工程技术1区
文献类型:
--
作者:
MADSEN, PA;SORENSEN, OR

文献摘要

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本文介绍了一种新形式的Boussinesq方程,它适用于从深水到浅水的缓变水深中不规则波的传播。该方程包含了良好的线性色散特性,并在两个水平维度上进行了推导和求解。在以前的一篇文章中,我们集中讨论了深水中水平底部上的波的传播和绕射。本文推广了这些原理,并将Boussinesq方程推广到包括与底坡成比例的项,这对方程的浅化性质是必不可少的。文中对新方程进行了线性浅化分析,并对深水和浅水中浅水和折射-绕射的数值模型进行了验证。
A new form of the Boussinesq equations applicable to irregular wave propagation on a slowly varying bathymetry from deep to shallow water is introduced. The equations incorporate excellent linear dispersion characteristics, and are formulated and solved in two horizontal dimensions. In an earlier paper we concentrated on wave propagation and diffraction on a horizontal bottom in deep water. In this paper these principles are generalized and the Boussinesq equations are extended to include terms proportional to the bottom slope, which are essential for the shoaling properties of the equations. The paper contains a linear shoaling analysis of the new equations and a verification of the numerical model with respect to shoaling and refraction-diffraction in deep and shallow water.