New insights into the fading problems of safflower red dyed textiles through a HPLC-PDA and colorimetric study
New insights into the fading problems of safflower red dyed textiles through a HPLC-PDA and colorimetric study
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DOI：
10.1016/j.culher.2018.12.002
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发表时间：
2019-07-01
影响因子：
3.1
通讯作者：
Izzo, Francesca Caterina
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Costantini, Rosa;Vanden Berghe, Ina;Izzo, Francesca Caterina
红花是众所周知的纺织品保护和恢复作为红色染料来源，产生一个很好的，虽然非常微妙的粉红色，是非常光敏。在许多著名博物馆的历史丝绸织物中可以看到由于光敏性而导致的褪色，这对纺织品保护者来说是一个重大挑战。然而，褪色不仅仅是光暴露的结果，因为在黑暗的博物馆储存中储存多年的织物也会逐渐褪色。本研究的目的是增加知识的红花，红花的主要红色染料成分的降解过程中所涉及的环境参数。新获得的信息将有助于更现实的角度对褪色的问题，漂白染色的纺织品，可能有助于他们的保护。为了评价红花红的稳定性，对新的丝绸样品进行了特定的老化试验，这些样品是用源自传统配方的现代配方用红花染色的。在人工老化方面，通过HPLC-PDA分析和比色法分别研究了模拟日光、温度、湿度和臭氧对老化效果的影响。结果证实，红花红在光照下降解最快。他们还揭示了红花色素染料成分在黑暗环境中的重要不稳定性，特别是在高湿度条件下。此外，HPLC-PDA研究能够为不同的标记物（例如Ct成分）提供新的见解，这些标记物通常在用红花红染色的历史物品中发现，但其起源仍不清楚。(C)2018 Elsevier Masson SAS。All rights reserved.
Safflower is well-known by textile conservators and restorers as the red dye source that produces a nice, though very delicate pink colour that is extremely light-sensitive. The fading due to light sensitivity can be seen in many historical silk fabrics from the most renowned museums and it is a major challenge for textile conservators. However, the fading is not only a result of light exposure, as fabrics stored for many years in dark museum storage also exhibit gradual decolouration. The aim of this study is to increase knowledge on the environmental parameters involved in the degradation processes of carthamin, the main red dye constituent of safflower (Carthamus tinctorius L.). The newly gained information will contribute to a more realistic perspective on the problems of fading of safflower-dyed textiles, possibly helping their conservation. To evaluate the stability of safflower red, specific ageing tests were carried out on new silk samples, dyed with safflower through modern recipes deriving from traditional ones. For the artificial ageing, the effects of simulated sunlight, temperature, humidity and ozone were separately investigated through HPLC-PDA analysis and colorimetric examinations. The results confirmed that safflower red degrades most rapidly under light exposure. They also revealed an important instability of the carthamin dye constituent in a dark environment, especially when subjected to high humidity conditions. Moreover, the HPLC-PDA study was able to provide new insight into the different markers (e.g. Ct components) that are commonly revealed in historic objects dyed with safflower red, but that still have unclarified origins. (C) 2018 Elsevier Masson SAS. All rights reserved.