Wave‐forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones

Wave‐forced dynamics in the nearshore river mouths, and swash zones
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近岸河口和冲刷区的波浪动力

DOI:
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发表时间:
2019
影响因子:
3.3
通讯作者:
M. Brocchini
M. Brocchini
中科院分区:
地球科学2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
M. Brocchini

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分析了波浪强迫对近岸浅水和河口主要水文地貌动力演化的作用。焦点主要集中在从风暴到每年最多的时间尺度上,在缓坡沙洲、耗散的沙滩上演变的跨岸动态。分析了近岸三个相互关联的主要子系统--近岸沙坝、河口和漫滩带的形成和演化的本地和非本地机制以及它们之间的联系。海滩坡度是所有近岸动力的主要控制参数。要恰当地描述所有这三个子系统的波浪强迫动力学,必须适当描述的一个局部机制是轨道速度与底边界层含沙量之间的适当相关性,而具体的动力学是河口的波流相互作用和沙洲产生,以及激流带的泥沙前漂移。基本的非局地机制既有次重力波(IG)波,也有大尺度的水平涡旋(即具有垂直轴),两者都影响着整个近岸的水动力、泥沙输移和海床形态。三个子系统之间的主要联系是破碎海浪产生的IG波的上游传播和激流-激流相互作用,激流带与沿河侧向沉积物运移的相互作用,以及近岸砂坝的演化。©2019 John Wiley&Sons,Ltd.
The role of wave forcing on the main hydro‐morphological dynamics evolving in the shallow waters of the nearshore and at river mouths is analyzed. Focus is mainly on the cross‐shore dynamics that evolve over mildly sloping barred, dissipative sandy beaches from the storm up to the yearly timescale, at most. Local and non‐local mechanisms as well as connections across three main inter‐related subsystems of the nearshore – the region of generation and evolution of nearshore bars, river mouths and the swash zone – are analyzed. The beach slope is a major controlling parameter for all nearshore dynamics. A local mechanism that must be properly described for a suitable representation of wave‐forced dynamics of all such three subsystems is the proper correlation between orbital velocity and sediment concentration in the bottom boundary layer; while specific dynamics are the wave–current interaction and bar generation at river mouths and the sediment presuspension at the swash zone. Fundamental non‐local mechanisms are both infragravity (IG) waves and large‐scale horizontal vortices (i.e. with vertical axes), both influencing the hydrodynamics, the sediment transport and the seabed morphology across the whole nearshore. Major connections across the three subsystems are the upriver propagation of IG waves generated by breaking sea waves and swash–swash interactions, the interplay between the swash zone and along‐river‐flank sediment transport and the evolution of nearshore sandbars. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2010.08.002
发表时间: 2011-01-01
影响因子: 4.4
作者:
Blenkinsopp, C. E.;Turner, I. L.;Russell, P. E.
通讯作者: Russell, P. E.