A bottom up approach to slowing fashion: Tailored solutions for consumers
A bottom up approach to slowing fashion: Tailored solutions for consumers
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DOI：
10.1016/j.jclepro.2021.126387
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发表时间：
2021-03
影响因子：
11.1
通讯作者：
J. West;C. Saunders;J. Willet
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
J. West;C. Saunders;J. Willet
在过去的几十年里，快速时尚已经出现，衣服变得更便宜，更不耐用，购买更频繁。让消费者远离快时尚是一项挑战，即使对那些更有道德意识的人来说也是如此。个人有不同的决策实践，对社会规范的反应也不同。即使是最有道德意识的人也会从事“灰色”消费，并且容易受到时尚周期中有计划的过时的影响（McDonald等人，2012年）。因此，在环境意识与行为不一致的服装方面存在着价值-行动差距。在本文中，我们使用文化的主题图式（从文化理论）作为一种启发式的装置，量身定制的解决方案，可以减少价值-行动-差距，可持续服装的基础上深入的定性研究。认识到消费者彼此不同，我们建议针对三种“理想类型”的个性来自文化理论-平等主义，等级主义和个人主义。从调查结果中可以明显看出，自下而上的解决方案，如制作车站，社会营销，衣柜审计和教育是慢时尚的重要推动力。它们将与一些行业主导的政府和自上而下的政策一起工作。我们将文化理论新颖地运用到快时尚的问题中，使我们能够提出自下而上的解决方案，这些解决方案可以根据不同人群的需求量身定制，以获得最大的共鸣。很明显，我们的绝大多数研究参与者都认为，社会互动在塑造他们的观点和行为方面与技能学习一样重要。这应该在任何试图增加生命或提升我们工作的尝试中模仿。找到将我们的项目工作从一个小的利基市场扩展到大众市场的方法至关重要。
Fast fashion has emerged in the last few decades, clothes have become cheaper, less durable and are purchased more frequently. Shifting consumers away from fast fashion is challenging, even for the more ethically minded. Individuals have different decisionmaking practices and respond differently to social norms. Even the most ethically minded engage in ‘grey’ consumption and are susceptible to planned obsolescence in fashion cycles (McDonald et al., 2012). There is, thus, a value-action gap in relation to clothing where environmental consciousness does not cohere with behaviours. In this paper we use cultural thematic schemata (from cultural theory) as a heuristic device to tailor solutions that could reduce the value-action-gap in relation to sustainable clothing based in-depth qualitative research. Recognising that consumers differ from one another, we suggest targeting the three ‘ideal types’ of personality derived from cultural theory - the egalitarian, the hierarchist and individualist. It is evident from the findings that bottom-up solutions such as making stations, social marketing, wardrobe audits and education are important enablers of slow fashion. They would work alongside a number of industry-led governmental and top down policies. Our novel use of cultural theory to the problem of fast fashion has enabled us to suggest bottom-up solutions, which can be tailored for maximum resonance with a broad range of people. It was clear for the huge majority of our research participants that social interaction was as important in shaping their views and behaviours as the learning of skills. This should be mimicked in any attempt to increase the life of, or upscale our work. Finding ways of expanding our project work from a small niche, to a mass market is crucial.