Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin
Pressurized liquid extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for confirming the photo-induced generation of dioxin-like derivatives and other cosmetic preservative photoproducts on artificial skin
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DOI：
10.1016/j.chroma.2016.02.066
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发表时间：
2016-04-01
影响因子：
4.1
通讯作者：
Lores, Marta
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Alvarez-Rivera, Gerardo;Llompart, Maria;Lores, Marta
化妆品防腐剂在暴露于紫外线的局部应用中的稳定性和光化学转化是一个严重但知之甚少的问题。在这项研究中，一个高通量的提取和选择性的加压液体萃取（PLE）耦合气相色谱-质谱（GC-MS）的基础上的方法进行了验证，并应用于调查的光化学转化的抗氧化剂丁基羟基甲苯（BHT），以及抗菌剂三氯生（TCS）和苯甲酸苯酯（PhBz）在人工皮肤模型。进行了两组光降解实验：（i）直接掺入目标防腐剂的人工皮肤的UV辐照（8 W，254 nm），和（ii）应用目标化合物强化的化妆品乳膏后人工皮肤的UV辐照。辐照后，PLE用于分离目标防腐剂及其转化产物。采用气相色谱-质谱联用仪（GC-MS）对三氯生的光降解动力学进行了跟踪研究，并对产生的副产物进行了鉴定和动力学监测。此外，还确定了七种BHT光产物和三种二苯甲酮作为PhBz副产物。这些发现揭示了化妆品成分在人造皮肤模型上光转化为不需要的光产物的第一个证据。(C)© 2016 Elsevier B. V.版权所有。
The stability and photochemical transformations of cosmetic preservatives in topical applications exposed to UV-light is a serious but poorly understood problem. In this study, a high throughput extraction and selective method based on pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) coupled to gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) was validated and applied to investigate the photochemical transformation of the antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), as well as the antimicrobials triclosan (TCS) and phenyl benzoate (PhBz) in an artificial skin model. Two sets of photodegradation experiments were performed: (i) UV-Irradiation (8 W, 254 nm) of artificial skin directly spiked with the target preservatives, and (ii) UV-irradiation of artificial skin after the application of a cosmetic cream fortified with the target compounds. After irradiation, PLE was used to isolate the target preservatives and their transformation products. The follow-up of the photodegradation kinetics of the parent preservatives, the identification of the arising by-products, and the monitorization of their kinetic profiles was performed by GC-MS. The photochemical transformation of triclosan into 2,8-dichloro-dibenzo-p-dioxin (2,8-DCDD) and other dioxin-like photoproducts has been confirmed in this work. Furthermore, seven BHT photoproducts, and three benzophenones as PhBz by-products, have been also identified. These findings reveal the first evidences of cosmetic ingredients phototransformation into unwanted photoproducts on an artificial skin model. (C) 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.