Disrupting the Fashion Archive: The Serendipity of Manufacturing Mistakes
Disrupting the Fashion Archive: The Serendipity of Manufacturing Mistakes
复制标题
DOI：
10.1080/17569370.2019.1658346
复制
发表时间：
2020-01
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
K. Almond
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
K. Almond
摘要文献记载了设计师如何利用时装档案作为设计和剪裁时装系列的探索灵感。（Clarke and De La Haye 2014; Rhys 2011; Riegels Melchior and Svensson 2014; Murphy 2011）。这种衍生的研究可以为面料、轮廓、形状的选择以及执行该系列所采用的技能和技术提供信息。本文描述了一个案例研究，要求设计专业的学生在利兹大学举办的约克郡时尚档案馆中挑选服装，以识别制造中的错误。它探索了偶然或故意的错误成为时装设计灵感来源的可能性。缺乏文献描述时装设计师如何从档案服装的制造错误中获得灵感，而这项研究试图纠正这些错误。更广泛的文献回顾强调了人类错误的定义如何在不同学科和背景下激发思想并导致创新，这些思想在本研究中被转移到时尚背景中。在档案服装中发现的一些制造错误包括：袖子缝制方式错误，针脚张力不正确，使用不适合设计的图案，切割面料时没有确保图案片是直的，使用错误的接口或根本没有接口，等等。这些发现为一系列当代服装的设计和最终制造提供了信息。这一过程的文档为服装创作者提供了一个重要的参考点，以打破传统的服装设计和技术方法，并支持创新技能的发展。这些可以用来创造新的和新颖的服装设计，以丰富全球时尚产业。
Abstract Literature has documented how designers use fashion archives as explorative inspiration for designing and cutting fashion collections. (Clarke and De La Haye 2014; Rhys 2011; Riegels Melchior and Svensson 2014; Murphy 2011). This derivative research can inform choices of fabric, silhouette, shape and the skills and technologies employed in the execution of the collection. This paper describes a case study that asked design students to identify mistakes in manufacture, in selected garments from the Yorkshire Fashion Archive held at University of Leeds. It explores the potential for accidental or intentional mistakes to be a source of inspiration for fashion design. There is a lack of literature that describes how fashion designers have been inspired by manufacturing mistakes in archive garments, which the research seeks to redress. A broader literature review emphasised how definitions of human mistakes have stimulated ideas and resulted in innovation in different disciplines and contexts and these ideas are transposed into a fashion context within this study. Some of the manufacturing mistakes identified in the archive garments included: sleeves sewn in the wrong way, incorrect stitch tension, using patterns that were unsuitable for a design, cutting fabric without making sure pattern pieces were straight, using the wrong interfacing or no interfacing at all, etc. These findings informed the design and eventual manufacture of a collection of contemporary garments. The documentation of this process provides an important reference point for garment creators to disrupt conventional approaches to fashion design and technology and supports the development of innovative skills. These can be utilised to create new and novel clothing designs with which to enrich the global fashion industry.