Seasonal rotation of a mixed sand-gravel beach

Seasonal rotation of a mixed sand-gravel beach
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混合砂砾海滩的季节性轮换

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发表时间:
2011
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通讯作者:
K. Bryan
K. Bryan
中科院分区:
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文献类型:
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作者:
T. Dolphin;C. Vincent;J. Wihsgott;M. Belhache;K. Bryan

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海豚,T. J.,文森特,C.E.,Wihsgott,J.,Belhache,M.和布莱恩,K.R.,2011.混合砂砾石海滩的季节性轮换。海岸研究杂志,SI 64(第11届国际海岸研讨会论文集),-。斯切钦,波兰,ISSN 0749-0208海滩旋转是两个主要波浪方向交替的结果,其中经过足够的时间允许沿岸沉积物运输将沉积物驱动到岬角封闭海湾的一端或另一端。海滩旋转的关键特征通常是双向波浪气候,每个波浪方向都有足够的持续性事件,以改变海滩的方向,以及岬角,以捕获沿着海岸运输的沉积物。在本文中,我们研究海岸线来自数码相机,显示了季节性的海滩旋转,由于波浪方向的变化,但在没有任何岬。我们推测,海滩旋转背后的驱动力是冬季和春季的波浪制度,以及相邻的砂堤的存在。海滩旋转在没有岬可以想象的沿岸运输梯度。Coughlan等人(2007年)表明,在砂堤背风面的沿岸输送中存在陡峭的梯度,部分原因是沿岸波高的显著变化。海岸线数据还显示了可能与银行头寸变化有关的长期反应。附加索引词:视频,沿岸沉积物输送,沙洲,岬,波浪破碎,折射,双向波浪气候
Dolphin, T.J., Vincent, C.E., Wihsgott, J., Belhache, M. and Bryan, K.R., 2011. Seasonal rotation of a mixed sand-gravel beach. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 64 (Proceedings of the 11th International Coastal Symposium), – . Szczecin, Poland, ISSN 0749-0208 Beach rotation is the result of alternation between two prevailing wave directions in which sufficient time elapses to allow longshore sediment transport to drive sediment to one end or other of a headland enclosed bay. The key features of beach rotation are usually a bi-directional wave climate with sufficiently persistent episodes of each wave direction to alter the beach orientation, and headlands to trap the sediments transported along the shore. In this paper we examine shorelines derived from digital cameras that show a seasonal beach rotation due to changes in wave direction, but in the absence of any headlands. We speculate that the driving forces behind the beach rotation are the winter and spring wave regimes, and the presence of the adjacent sand bank. Beach rotation in the absence of headlands could conceivably result from longshore transport gradients. Coughlan et al. (2007) showed that there are steep gradients in longshore transport in the lee of the sand bank partly as a result of significant alongshore variability in wave height. The shoreline data also show longer-term responses that are likely to be connected to changes in bank position. ADDITIONAL INDEX WORDS: video, longshore sediment transport, sand banks, headlands, wave breaking, refraction,, bidirectional wave climate