The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam
The dissipation of wind wave energy across a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam
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DOI：
10.1007/s00338-011-0719-5
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发表时间：
2011-01
期刊：
影响因子：
3.5
通讯作者：
A. Péquignet;J. Becker;M. Merrifield;S. Boc
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
A. Péquignet;J. Becker;M. Merrifield;S. Boc
在贸易风和热带风暴条件下，在关岛的伊潘的边缘礁的实地观测被用来评估从前礁到海岸线的海洋和涌浪能量的转化。桑迪海滩的波浪破碎和底摩擦的参数化被发现代表所观察到的波能衰减与摩擦系数的增加。这些参数化被纳入一维能量通量平衡，这是集成在整个珊瑚礁，以评估不同的潮差，入射波高和珊瑚礁水深对海洋和膨胀带波高和波设置海岸线附近的影响。礁上的波浪能量强烈地受到深度限制，并受礁淹没水平的控制。海岸线波能随入射波高的增加而增加，主要是由于破碎波设置引起的水位增加。潮汐水位的增加导致海岸线能量的增加，因为波浪的建立只是微弱地减少。在海岸的波高被证明是成反比的宽度的礁滩由于耗散。
Field observations over a fringing reef at Ipan, Guam, during trade wind and tropical storm conditions are used to assess the transformation of sea and swell energy from the fore reef to the shoreline. Parameterizations of wave breaking and bottom friction developed for sandy beaches are found to represent the observed decay in wave energy with an increased friction coefficient. These parameterizations are incorporated into the one-dimensional energy flux balance, which is integrated across the reef to assess the effects of varying tidal range, incident wave height and reef bathymetry on the sea and swell band wave height and wave setup near the shoreline. Wave energy on the reef is strongly depth-limited and controlled by the reef submergence level. Shoreline wave energy increases with incident wave height largely due to the increase in water level from breaking wave setup. Increased tidal levels result in increased shoreline energy, since wave setup is only weakly reduced. The wave height at the shore is shown to be inversely proportional to the width of the reef flat due to dissipation.