Tidal modulation of storm waves on a macrotidal flat in the Yellow Sea

Tidal modulation of storm waves on a macrotidal flat in the Yellow Sea
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黄海大潮滩风暴波的潮汐调制

DOI:
10.1016/s0272-7714(02)00369-4
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发表时间:
2003
影响因子:
2.8
通讯作者:
B. O. Kim
B. O. Kim
中科院分区:
地球科学3区
文献类型:
--
作者:
B. O. Kim

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在黄海沿着韩国的白水海岸,一个严重的侵蚀阶段的潮滩已被归因于冬季的水动力过程。为了研究冬季风暴潮滩上的水动力学行为,在现场测量的电流和波浪,获得了一个仪器系统部署在低潮区在小潮-大潮期于1999年2月。测量包括两次不同潮汐条件下的风暴事件,即第一次风暴发生在小潮期间,第二次较弱的风暴发生在大潮期间。在风暴条件下,在15 cm的高度记录的近底速度表明,电流主要是沿海岸方向的最大速度为0.55m/s,波的轨道速度和有效波高分别达到1 m/s和3 m。特别是,据观察,与波浪有关的参数的幅度在大潮(较弱的风暴)比在小潮,无论风暴的强度。分析波高和水深之间的关系,以及随时间变化的波速谱和偏度,表明风暴条件对波浪的影响是相关的波浪破碎过程。波速宽带谱中谐波的出现表明了由于波浪破碎而引起的波能的重新分布。波高(Hs)与随潮汐波动的水深(h)呈线性相关,相关系数为0.7(=Hs/h),接近破裂极限。风暴波的潮汐调制与破波过程可能是负责所观察到的风暴强度和它们对潮间带的水动力后果之间的差异。
On the open shores of the Yellow Sea along Korea's Baeksu coast, a severe erosional phase in a tidal flat has been attributed to hydrodynamic processes in winter. To investigate the hydrodynamic behavior of winter storms on the intertidal flat, in situ measurements of currents and waves were obtained with an instrumented system deployed at a low tidal zone over a neap–spring tidal period in February 1999. The measurements included two storm events under different tidal conditions, i.e. the first storm occurred during a neap tide and the second weaker storm during a spring tide. Near-bottom velocities recorded during storm conditions at an elevation of 15cm show that currents were dominantly directed alongshore with a maximum speed of 0.55m/s and that the wave orbital velocity and significant wave height reached up to 1m/s and 3m, respectively. In particular, it was observed that the magnitude of wave-related parameters was greater during the spring tide (the weaker storm) than during the neap tide, regardless of the intensity of the storms. Analysis of the relationship between wave height and water depth, and temporal variations in wave velocity spectra and skewness, show that the effect of storm conditions on waves was relevant to wave-breaking processes. The occurrence of harmonics in the broad-banded spectra of wave velocity demonstrates redistribution of wave energy due to the breaking of waves. Wave height (Hs) was linearly related to water depth (h) fluctuating with tides, yielding a correlation coefficient of 0.7 (=Hs/h), which was close to the breaking limit. This tidal modulation of storm waves associated with wave-breaking processes is possibly responsible for the observed discrepancy between the intensity of storms and their hydrodynamic consequences on the intertidal flat.