Observations and simulations of wave runup during a laboratory dune erosion experiment
Observations and simulations of wave runup during a laboratory dune erosion experiment
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DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.007
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发表时间：
2016-09
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
M. Palmsten;Kristen D. Splinter
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
M. Palmsten;Kristen D. Splinter
XBeach是一个基于过程的数值模型，旨在模拟极端风暴事件期间的形态变化，进行了校准，并与大规模实验室沙丘侵蚀实验的观测结果进行了比较。波浪条件沿着谭，波爬高在海滩，和三维位置的沙丘在整个实验中进行了测量。一旦模型被校准，则模拟水槽中的假潮模式并与观察结果相匹配。模拟波浪对γ、波高水深比和cf.摩擦系数模拟启动解释了50-87%的观察结果方差。然而，在整个实验过程中，模拟波浪爬高的幅度被低估了。在模拟助跑误差组成的高偏差和增益误差的平均水位，低偏差的亚重力冲，低偏差和增益误差的入射冲。所观察到的概率密度函数的冲洗统计上一致的时间，当冲洗仅限于前滨和时间，当冲洗与沙丘相互作用。然而，模拟的概率密度函数的冲击统计不同的碰撞制度。尽管系统低估了波浪爬高，模拟沙丘侵蚀比较以及与观测后，泥沙输运参数进行了校准。模拟沙丘侵蚀是敏感的临界坡度参数的湿和干区域的海滩，湿和干区域之间的界面的深度的海滩，和阈值深度的泥沙输运和回流。
XBeach, a process-based numerical model designed to simulate morphologic change during extreme storm events, was calibrated and compared to observations from a large-scale laboratory dune erosion experiment. Wave conditions along the tan, wave runup at the beach, and 3-dimensional position of the dune were measured throughout the experiment. Seiching modes in the tank were simulated and matched the observations once the model was calibrated. Simulated waves were sensitive toγ, the ratio of wave height to water depth, and cf., the coefficient of friction. Simulated runup explained 50–87% of the observed variance in observations. However, the magnitude of simulated wave runup was underestimated throughout the experiment. Errors in simulated runup were composed of a high bias and gain error in mean water level, low bias in the infragravity swash, and low bias and gain errors in incident swash. Observed probability density functions of swash were statistically consistent between times when swash was confined to the foreshore and times when swash interacted with the dune. However, simulated probability density functions of swash were statistically different during the collision regime. Despite the systematic underestimation of wave runup, modeled dune erosion compared well with observations after the sediment transport parameters were calibrated. Modeled dune erosion was sensitive to the critical slope parameters over the wet and dry regions of the beach, the depth of the interface between the wet and dry regions of the beach, and the threshold depth for sediment transport and return flow.