SKIN COLOR TYPOLOGY AND SUNTANNING PATHWAYS
SKIN COLOR TYPOLOGY AND SUNTANNING PATHWAYS
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DOI：
10.1111/j.1467-2494.1991.tb00561.x
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发表时间：
1991-08-01
影响因子：
2.3
通讯作者：
HOURSEAU, C
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
CHARDON, A;CRETOIS, I;HOURSEAU, C
使用实验室太阳模拟器或在实际太阳下对防晒产品功效的评估涉及根据构成太阳光的波长对各种皮肤反应的临床和主观评估。 这些光生物学反应根据皮肤类型而变化，特别是根据基本皮肤黑素含量，即根据皮肤颜色而变化。 现在，活体皮肤颜色的仪器测量变得更容易、快速和可靠。 基于标准CIE-L*a*B* 颜色系统并与人眼相关，该技术用于定义高加索人群的肤色域，提出肤色分类，然后在三周时间内客观地跟踪UVB、UVA和UVB + A多次暴露在三种皮肤类别上诱导的晒黑的动力学和动力学。 在三维L*a*B* 颜色空间中的晒黑成分，即红斑，即时色素沉着和体质黑化，以及由此产生的晒黑途径的具体方向进行了分析和定义，在三维颜色空间中，使用矢量方法。 UVB、UVA和UVB + A鞣革通过它们的强度、它们的色调和特别是它们的持久能力来区分：UVA鞣革显然比UVB更持久。 此外，未发现UVA*UVB相互作用对晒黑强度的影响显著。 通过肤色分类和晒黑模型，这项全面的研究为所涉及的皮肤现象的色度解释提供了基本工具，前提是这种解释始终在颜色空间的三个维度中考虑。 它还提出了一些有用的实际应用，太阳产品的配方和评价。
The evaluation of sun-product efficacy, with laboratory solar simulators or in actual sun, implicates clinical and subjective assessment of the various skin responses in terms of wavelengths constitutive of solar light. These photobiological responses vary according to skin types and particularly to basic skin melanic content, i.e. with skin colour. Now, the instrumental measurement of live skin colour has become easier to perform, fast and reliable. Based on the standard CIE-L*a*b* colour system and correlated with the human eye, this technique was used to define the skin colour domain of the caucasian population, to propose a skin colour classification, and then to objectively follow, over a three week period, the dynamics and kinetics of tanning induced by UVB, UVA and UVB + A multi-exposures on the three skin categories. The specific directions in the three-dimensional L*a*b* colour space of the tanning components, i.e. erythema, immediate pigmentation and constitutional melanization, as well as the resulting tanning pathways, were analysed and defined in the three-dimensional colour space, using a vectorial method. The UVB, UVA and UVB + A tannings were differentiated by their intensity, their hue and especially their lasting capacity: UVA tanning clearly appeared more lasting than UVB. In addition, the UVA*UVB interaction on tanning intensity was not found to be significant. With the skin colour classification and the tanning models, this comprehensive study supplies a basic tool for the colorimetric interpretation of the skin phenomena involved, provided that this interpretation is always considered in the three dimensions of the colour space. It also suggests some useful practical applications for sun product formulation and evaluation.