Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope

Qualitative Description of Swashing Motion States on Mild Beach Slope
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温和海滩坡度冲刷运动状态的定性描述

DOI:
10.1007/s13344-019-0039-z
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发表时间:
2019-07
影响因子:
1.6
通讯作者:
Liu Yanli
Liu Yanli
中科院分区:
工程技术2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Yin Jing;Zou Zhili;Fang Kezhao;Liu Yanli

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在缓坡海岸上,低频波(LFWs)的运动主导着冲流运动。伴随着这种运动,存在两种冲流运动状态,即低频波发生碰撞和未发生碰撞。本研究通过将其与两个入射波群情况下产生的低频波数量相关联,定性地区分了这两种状态。为此,从理论上建立了一个简化的冲流指数。进行了一系列相关实验,以观察在1:20到1:160不同缓坡上产生的外向低频波,并确定冲流指数的临界值。还基于高阶Boussinesq方程进行了数值模拟,以帮助识别实验中产生的低频波。
The swashing motion on mild beach slope is dominated by the motion of low frequency waves (LFWs). Companying such a motion, there are two types of swashing motion states, occurrence or no occurrence of LFW's collision. The present study distinguishes the two states qualitatively by relating it to the number of generated LFWs for the case of two incident wave groups. A simplified swashing index is established theoretically for this purpose. A series of related experiments were performed to observe the generated out-going LFWs on different mild slope from 1:20 to 1:160 and to determine the critical value of the swashing index. Numerical simulations based on higher order Boussinesq equations are also performed to help the recognition of the LFWs generated in the experiment.
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