Consumer and Consumed

Consumer and Consumed
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消费者与被消费者

DOI:
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发表时间:
2017
期刊:
影响因子:
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通讯作者:
Jakob A. Klein
Jakob A. Klein
中科院分区:
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文献类型:
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作者:
James Staples;Jakob A. Klein

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当2013年初欧洲的“马肉丑闻”有可能进一步破坏人们对食品生产商和零售商脆弱的信任时,组成这一系列的论文已经发展了很长时间。这一丑闻导致人们发现马肉在品牌现成食品和加工食品中被冒充为其他类型的文化上更可接受的肉类,特别是牛肉(Lawrence 2013)。但早些时候发生的动物性食品危机--从上世纪80年代发现牛的牛海绵状脑病,到2008年曝光的中国奶粉受三聚氰胺污染--已经充分表明,在工业化和全球化的食品供应体系背景下,我们食用的动物不仅能维持我们的身体或满足我们的烹饪口味,在这样做的过程中,深刻地重塑了社会,经济和生态关系以及对食用,口味和健康的文化理解。人与作为食物的动物之间的联系并不只是消费者与被消费者之间的单向关系,而是涉及一系列更为复杂的关系,除其他外,涉及生态变化、世界市场和当地经济条件、健康和食品安全、劳资关系以及不断变化的文化价值观。例如,不断增长的肉类消费被描述为更广泛、日益全球化的“营养转型”的一部分,远离富含纤维和复合碳水化合物的饮食,这种转型与新出现的健康问题有关,包括肥胖、II型糖尿病、胃肠道疾病、心血管疾病和某些癌症的增加(Popkin 1993; Drewnowski 1999)。
The papers that make up this collection were already long in development when the European ‘horsemeat scandal’ in early 2013 threatened to derail still further what fragile trust there remained in food producers and retailers. This scandal entailed the discovery that horsemeat was being passed off in branded ready-made meals and processed foods as other types of more culturally acceptable meat, beef in particular (Lawrence 2013). But earlier animal food-related crises – from the discovery of Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy in cattle in the 1980s, to the widespread contamination of powdered milk with melamine in China that came to light in 2008 – had already made it abundantly plain that, in the context of industrialising and globalising food supply systems, the animals we eat do not simply sustain our bodies or satisfy our culinary tastes but, in doing so, come profoundly to reshape social, economic and ecological relations and cultural understandings of edibility, taste and health. Connections between humans and animals-as-food are not simply one-way relationships between consumer and consumed, but involve a more complex set of relations concerned, among other things, with ecological change, world markets and local economic conditions, health and food safety, labour relations and changing cultural values. For example, growing meat consumption has been described as part of a wider, increasingly globalised ‘nutrition transition’ away from diets rich in fibres and complex carbohydrates, a transition associated with emergent health concerns including rises in obesity, type II diabetes, gastrointestinal disorders, cardiovascular illnesses and certain cancers (Popkin 1993; Drewnowski 1999).