A biomechanical study of equilibrium in sport rock climbing

A biomechanical study of equilibrium in sport rock climbing
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DOI:
10.1016/s0966-6362(99)00024-7
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发表时间:
1999-12-01
期刊:
影响因子:
2.4
通讯作者:
Martin, L
Martin, L
中科院分区:
医学3区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Quaine, F;Martin, L

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本文报道的实验的主要目标之一是分析的安排的力量施加到持有伴随着自愿的右脚释放悬挂攀岩。使用四个配备有应变计的保持器测量施加到保持器的三维反作用力。释放后的力量安排包括三足站立在剩下的三个保持垂直涉水,和两个横向相对的保持(左脚和左保持)的水平力的两足站立。并从静态平衡机理的角度分析了这些结果的普遍意义。然而,在得出结论之前,必须分析其他攀爬动作和姿势。(C)1999 Elsevier Science B.V.保留所有权利。
One of the main objectives of the experiment reported in this article was to analyze the arrangement of the forces applied to the holds accompanying a voluntary right foot release in the hanging rock climber. The three dimensional reaction forces applied to the holds were measured using four holds equipped with strain gauges. The force arrangement after the release consisted of a tripedal stance on the three remaining holds for the vertical fords, and of a bipedal stance on two laterally opposite holds (left foot and left holds) for the horizontal forces. The general significance of the results was analyzed with respect to the mechanism of static equilibrium. However, before conclusions can be drawn, other climbing movements and positions must be analyzed. (C) 1999 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved.