On the distribution of wave height in shallow water
On the distribution of wave height in shallow water
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DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2016.01.015
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发表时间：
2016-05
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
Yanyun Wu;D. Randell;M. Christou;K. Ewans;P. Jonathan
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Yanyun Wu;D. Randell;M. Christou;K. Ewans;P. Jonathan
深水中海浪高度的统计分布已使用瑞利分布（Longuet-Higgins，1952年）和威布尔分布（Forristall，1978年）建模。深度引起的波浪破碎导致限制波高水深比，需要新的参数化这些或其他分布形式的浅水。Glukhovskiy（1966）提出了一种Weibull参数化方法，该方法考虑了深度限制的破碎，货车Vledder（1991）对此进行了修改。Battjes和Groenendijk（2000）提出了两部分威布尔-威布尔分布。在这里，我们提出了一个两部分的威布尔广义帕累托模型波高在浅水中，参数化经验的海况参数（显着波高，HS，当地波数，kL，和水深，d），使用数据从实验室和现场测量从4个离岸位置。我们特别关注的是，该模型可以以简单的方式有效地应用;给定三个预先指定的通用参数，该模型还需要海况有效波高和波数以及水深的值，以便可以应用。该模型具有连续的概率密度、光滑的累积分布函数、Miche波高上限（Miche，1944）和采用HS作为从Weibull体到广义Pareto尾形式的过渡波高。因此，该模型是一种有效的破碎波高分布的新形式。估计模型提供了良好的预测性能的实验室和现场数据。
The statistical distribution of the height of sea waves in deep water has been modelled using the Rayleigh (Longuet-Higgins, 1952) and Weibull distributions (Forristall, 1978). Depth-induced wave breaking leading to restriction on the ratio of wave height to water depth requires new parameterisations of these or other distributional forms for shallow water. Glukhovskiy (1966) proposed a Weibull parameterisation accommodating depth-limited breaking, modified by van Vledder (1991). Battjes and Groenendijk (2000) suggested a two-part Weibull–Weibull distribution. Here we propose a two-part Weibull-generalised Pareto model for wave height in shallow water, parameterised empirically in terms of sea state parameters (significant wave height,HS, local wave-number,kL, and water depth,d), using data from both laboratory and field measurements from 4 offshore locations. We are particularly concerned that the model can be applied usefully in a straightforward manner; given three pre-specified universal parameters, the model further requires values for sea state significant wave height and wave number, and water depth so that it can be applied. The model has continuous probability density, smooth cumulative distribution function, incorporates the Miche upper limit for wave heights (Miche, 1944) and adoptsHSas the transition wave height from Weibull body to generalised Pareto tail forms. Accordingly, the model is effectively a new form for the breaking wave height distribution. The estimated model provides good predictive performance on laboratory and field data.