Identification of Natural Dyes on Laboratory-Dyed Wool and Ancient Wool, Silk, and Cotton Fibers Using Attenuated Total Reflection (ATR) Fourier Transform Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Fourier Transform Raman Spectroscopy
Identification of Natural Dyes on Laboratory-Dyed Wool and Ancient Wool, Silk, and Cotton Fibers Using Attenuated Total Reflection (ATR) Fourier Transform Infrared (FT-IR) Spectroscopy and Fourier Transform Raman Spectroscopy
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DOI：
10.1366/10-06203
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发表时间：
2011-09-01
影响因子：
3.5
通讯作者：
Pozzi, Federica
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Bruni, Silvia;De Luca, Eleonora;Pozzi, Federica
衰减全反射（ATR）红外光谱和傅里叶变换（FT）拉曼光谱是从实验室用古代天然染料染色的羊毛线中获得的，遵循类似于古代羊毛染色方法的程序。ATR光谱主要由羊毛的信号主导，使得仅通过红外光谱的目视检查难以识别纤维上的染料。然而，拉曼光谱显示出更显着的特点，可归因于染料，如以前在文献中研究的现代合成染料。一个图书馆的搜索方法，从而适用于ATR和拉曼光谱的二阶导数，以验证识别染料的可能性。构建了两个库，一个由未染色羊毛（原料，水洗和媒染）的ATR光谱和纯染料的透射光谱组成，另一个由未染色羊毛和纯染料的拉曼光谱组成。相关和一阶导数相关搜索算法。这里提出的结果表明，这两种类型的光谱是互补的，在这种工作中，允许几乎完整的识别历史上的染料羊毛。事实上，通过两种检索的组合使用，大多数染料被鉴定为具有良好的相似性指数并且在前五次命中内。只有胭脂树是完全不可能的识别使用这两种技术。随后，同样的方法被应用于从古代高加索和中国纺织品中提取的羊毛、丝绸和棉线。
Attenuated total reflection (ATR) infrared and Fourier transform (FT) Raman spectra were obtained from wool threads dyed in the laboratory with natural dyes used in antiquity, following a procedure similar to ancient methods for dyeing wool. The ATR spectra were primarily dominated by the signals of the wool, making it difficult to identify the dye on the fibers only by visual inspection of the infrared spectrum. However, the Raman spectra showed more significant characteristics attributable to the dyes as previously studied in the literature on modern synthetic dyes. A library-search method was thus applied to the second derivatives of both the ATR and Raman spectra to verify the possibility of identifying the dye. Two libraries were constructed, one consisting of the ATR spectra of undyed wool (raw, washed, and mordanted) and the transmission spectra of pure dyes and the other consisting of the Raman spectra of undyed wool and of pure dyes. Correlation and first-derivative correlation search algorithms were used. The results presented here suggest that the two types of spectroscopy are complementary in this kind of work, allowing the almost complete identification of historic dyes on wool. In fact, through the combined use of the two searches, most dyes were identified with a good index of similarity and within the first five hits. Only for annatto was identification totally impossible using either technique. Subsequently the same method was applied to wool, silk, and cotton threads taken from ancient Caucasian and Chinese textiles.