Lagrangian Drifter Dispersion in the Surf Zone: Directionally Spread, Normally Incident Waves
Lagrangian Drifter Dispersion in the Surf Zone: Directionally Spread, Normally Incident Waves
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冲浪区的拉格朗日漂移色散：定向传播、正常入射波
DOI：
10.1175/2008jpo3892.1
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发表时间：
2009
影响因子：
3.5
通讯作者：
F. Feddersen
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
M. Spydell;F. Feddersen
摘要：本文研究了冲浪带波浪和环流模型中的拉格朗日漂移统计量，并将其与沿海岸均匀天然海滩上观测到的单粒子和双粒子色散统计量进行了比较。漂浮物的轨迹用一个随时间变化的波模型来模拟，该模型可以分解单个波并参数化波浪破碎。该模型再现了在三个跨岸地点观测到的波浪统计数据的跨岸变化。此外，观测到的和模拟的欧拉分箱漂移速度（均值和标准差）一致。模拟的冲浪带拉格朗日统计量与观测到的相似。对单粒子（绝对）色散统计量进行了较好的预测，包括无量纲化位移概率密度函数和位移方差随时间的增长。模拟的相对色散和尺度相关扩散率与观测值一致，表明存在…
Abstract Lagrangian drifter statistics in a surf zone wave and circulation model are examined and compared to single- and two-particle dispersion statistics observed on an alongshore uniform natural beach with small, normally incident, directionally spread waves. Drifter trajectories are modeled with a time-dependent Boussinesq wave model that resolves individual waves and parameterizes wave breaking. The model reproduces the cross-shore variation in wave statistics observed at three cross-shore locations. In addition, observed and modeled Eulerian binned (means and standard deviations) drifter velocities agree. Modeled surf zone Lagrangian statistics are similar to those observed. The single-particle (absolute) dispersion statistics are well predicted, including nondimensionalized displacement probability density functions (PDFs) and the growth of displacement variance with time. The modeled relative dispersion and scale-dependent diffusivity is consistent with the observed and indicates the presence of ...