Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics
Wave Theory Predictions of Crest Kinematics
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DOI：
10.1007/978-94-009-0531-3_13
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发表时间：
1990
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
R. J. Sobey
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
R. J. Sobey
In much of the practice of coastal and ocean engineering. the question of which wave theory to use has been largely of academic interest. Consideration of shallow water and/or higher order wave theories has been complicated by the relative inaccessibility ofthese theories. The literature is extensive and frequently confusing. which has often led to the adoption of linear wave theory. whether or not it is appropriate. In much of the practical parameter range, mathematical predictions for steady, progressive waves are available from a range of orders from Stokes, Cnoidal and Fourier theories. The differences are often considerable. Further complications are introduced by efforts to generalize steady progressive wave theory to real sea states, where spatial and temporal irregularity are characteristic features of the water surface. In both cases however, the crucial aspects of the mathematical physics are the nonlinear free surface boundary conditions, so that there remains a close relationship between regular (Le. steady) and irregular wave theory.Crest kinematics in particular have been the subject of considerable recent interest. The details of crest profiles and especially velocities and accelerations in the neighborhood of the crest are critical in considerations of the breaking wave process and in wave loading predictions from the O'Brien-Morison equation. The entire trough-crest region is equally dominant in forcing the nearshore circulation. This review will focus on the prediction of crest kinematics in regular and irregular waves. Initial consideration is given to the theoretical background and predictive capability of steady progressive wave theory. This leads to a discussion of crest kinematics in regular and irregular waves. The review is completed by consideration of theories for the prediction of kinematics in irregular waves.
