Who owns a cuisine? The grassroots politics of Japanese food in Europe
Who owns a cuisine? The grassroots politics of Japanese food in Europe
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谁拥有美食？
DOI：
10.1080/1683478x.2020.1774960
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发表时间：
2020
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Wang Chuanfei
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Farrer James;Wang Chuanfei
烹饪借用是如此普遍，似乎微不足道，但他们是重要的许多有关的演员。人们的生计、职业地位和社会身份可能与他们在定义烹饪文化边界方面的利害关系有关。当占主导地位的群体或跨国公司连锁等强大的行为者采用或重新发明弱势群体和边缘群体的菜肴时，可以被视为文化挪用。然而，当多个弱势和边缘行为者争夺一个菜系的所有权时，情况的定义就变得更加复杂。本文讨论了日本和其他亚洲移民演员如何参与基层烹饪政治周围的定义和日本料理的使用在欧洲的日本食品热潮的背景下。它显示了一个移民群体的“借来的力量”如何可能威胁到烹饪领域基本利益攸关方的地位甚至生计。
Culinary borrowings are so common as to seem trivial, and yet they are consequential for many of the actors concerned. People’s livelihoods, professional status, and social identity may be tied to their stake in the defining boundaries of culinary cultures. When dominant groups or powerful actors such as multinational corporate chains adopt or reinvent the cuisine of weaker and marginal groups, it may be regarded as cultural appropriation. However, the definition of the situation becomes more complicated when multiple weak and marginal actors compete over ownership of a cuisine. This article discusses how Japanese and other Asian migrant actors participate in grassroots culinary politics surrounding definitions and uses of Japanese cuisine in the context of a Japanese food boom in Europe. It shows how the “borrowed power” of one migrant group may threaten the status and even livelihoods of the foundational stakeholders in a culinary field.