Modelling the effect of waves, weathering and beach development on shore platform development
Modelling the effect of waves, weathering and beach development on shore platform development
复制标题
模拟波浪、风化和海滩开发对岸上平台开发的影响
DOI：
10.1002/esp.1166
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发表时间：
2005
影响因子：
3.3
通讯作者：
A. Trenhaile
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
A. Trenhaile
应用数学模型研究了海岸平台的开发。机械波侵蚀取决于潮汐范围，波高和周期，破碎机的高度和深度，破碎机类型，碎波带宽度和底部粗糙度，海底坡度，岩石阻力和潮间带内的波浪作用的海拔频率等变量。还包括砂和卵石积累的影响，悬崖高度和碎片流动性，并与潮汐润湿和干燥的向下磨损。海滩的出现、位置和厚度往往取决于最初台地形态的微小变化，但由于它们对下层岩石表面的磨蚀或保护作用，它们能够在台地形态上产生明显的差异。一般化是困难的，但该模型表明，平台梯度与潮差增加。平台宽度也随着潮差的增加而缓慢下降，但随着快速下降而减小。随着波浪能量的增加，平台坡度减小，平台宽度增大，岩石阻力减小，平台粗糙度减小。在低潮差情况下，细砂海滩的平台坡度一般较低，平台宽度比砾石海滩大，但在高潮差情况下，这种关系变化更大。平台宽度增加，平台坡度降低与裸露表面的下穿率，特别是在低潮差环境中，但模式是不太清楚的海滩覆盖的平台。有大量海滩沉积物的台地往往比裸露的台地表面更窄、更陡。随着悬崖高度的增加和悬崖碎片流动性的降低，台地坡度增加，台地宽度减小。版权所有© 2005年约翰威利父子有限公司。
A mathematical model was used to study shore platform development. Mechanical wave erosion was dependent on such variables as tidal range, wave height and period, breaker height and depth, breaker type, surf zone width and bottom roughness, submarine gradient, rock resistance and the elevational frequency of wave action within the intertidal zone. Also included were the effects of sand and pebble accumulation, cliff height and debris mobility, and downwearing associated with tidal wetting and drying. The occurrence, location and thickness of beaches often depended on initially quite minor variations in platform morphology, but owing to their abrasive or protective effect on underlying rock surfaces, they were able to produce marked differences in platform morphology. Generalizations are difficult, but the model suggests that platform gradient increases with tidal range. Platform width also increases with tidal range with slow downwearing but it decreases with fast downwearing. Platform gradient decreases and width increases with wave energy, and decreasing rock resistance and platform roughness. With low tidal range, platform gradient is generally lower and platform width greater with beaches of fine sand than with gravel, but the relationship is more variable with a high tidal range. Platform width increases and platform gradient decreases with the rate of downwearing on bare surfaces, particularly in low tidal range environments, but the pattern is less clear on beach‐covered platforms. Platforms with large amounts of beach sediment tend to be narrower and steeper than bare platform surfaces. Platform gradient increases and platform width decreases with increasing cliff height and with decreasing cliff debris mobility. Copyright © 2005 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.