Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids, Repair the Damaged Hair
Glycolipid Biosurfactants, Mannosylerythritol Lipids, Repair the Damaged Hair
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DOI：
10.5650/jos.59.267
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发表时间：
2010-05-01
影响因子：
1.5
通讯作者：
Kitamoto, Dai
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Morita, Tomotake;Kitagawa, Masaru;Kitamoto, Dai
甘露糖赤藓糖醇脂（mel）是由假酶属的原料生产的，由于其多种界面和生化作用，是目前已知的最有前途的生物表面活性剂。为了扩大其在化妆品中的应用，以受损发质为研究对象，对其护发性能进行了研究。电镜观察发现，使用MEL-A和MEL-B后，受损头发明显恢复。经MEL-A （122.0 +/- 13.5 gf/p）、MEL-B （119.4 +/- 7.6 gf/p）和神经酰胺（100.7 +/- 15.9 gf/p）处理后受损头发的抗拉强度明显高于单纯的月桂基葡萄糖苷（96.7 +/- 12.7 gf/p），表明mel在护发治疗中的优势。此外，MEL-A（0.108 +/- 0.002）、MEL-B（0.107 +/- 0.003）和神经酰胺（0.111 +/- 0.003）处理后受损头发的平均摩擦系数保持不变，但月桂基葡萄糖苷处理后平均摩擦系数增加（0.126 +/- 0.003）。月桂基葡萄糖苷（0.204 +/- 0.002）处理后的弯曲刚度增加被MEL-A（0.129 +/- 0.002）、MEL-B（0.176 +/- 0.003）和神经酰胺（0.164 +/- 0.002）处理阻止。因此，MELs被认为是一种新的护发成分，它不仅可以恢复受损的头发，而且可以提供光滑柔顺的头发。
Mannosylerythritol lipids (MELs), are produced from feedstock by the genus Pseudozyma, and are the most promising biosurfactants known due to its versatile interfacial and biochemical actions. In order to broaden the application in cosmetics, the hair care properties of MELs were investigated using damaged hair. On electron microscopic observation, the damaged hair was dramatically recovered with applying MEL-A and MEL-B. The tensile strength of the damaged hair increased by treatment with MEL-A (122.0 +/- 13.5 gf/p), MEL-B (119.4 +/- 7.6 gf/p) and ceramide (100.7 +/- 15.9 gf/p) compared with only lauryl glucoside (96.7 +/- 12.7 gf/p), indicating the advantage of MELs on hair care treatment. In addition, the average friction coefficient of the damaged hair was maintained after treatment with MEL-A (0.108 +/- 0.002), MEL-B (0.107 +/- 0.003) and the ceramide (0.111 +/- 0.003), although lauryl glucoside treatment increased the average friction coefficient (0.126 +/- 0.003). The increase of bending rigidity by treatment with lauryl glucoside (0.204 +/- 0.002) was prevented by treatment with MEL-A (0.129 +/- 0.002), MEL-B (0.176 +/- 0.003) and the ceramide (0.164 +/- 0.002). Consequently, MELs are proposed to be the new hair care ingredient, which are the highly useful agent for not only for the recovery of damaged hair but also for providing the smooth and flexible hair.