An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom
An experimental study on nonlinear wave dynamics for freak waves over an uneven bottom
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DOI：
10.3389/fmars.2023.1150896
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发表时间：
2023-03
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
Yanli He;G. Wu;Hongfei Mao;Hong-zhou Chen;Jinbo Lin;Guo-hai Dong
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Yanli He;G. Wu;Hongfei Mao;Hong-zhou Chen;Jinbo Lin;Guo-hai Dong
实验研究了非均匀水深对畸形波非线性动力学的影响，重点研究了不同几何参数和谱分析引起的不同非线性行为之间的相互关系。频率调制和非线性相位耦合都可以被水深的减小所激发，并在沙坝的最高峰后减弱，能量向浅滩高频成分传递的非线性表现支持频率调制可以很好地反映非线性相位耦合。希尔伯特能谱和双相干的一致变化表明，浅水波传播过程中的主要非线性相互作用是二次非线性。此外，还对水深对参数变化的影响进行了几何研究，研究结果表明，当波浪接近杆顶峰值时，平均不对称性和峰度发生突变。当波浪沿着水槽沿着传播时，可以在各个位置处产生畸形波，然而，当波浪传播接近最浅水深时，畸形波更频繁地出现，畸形波出现的最大概率可以高达约1%。
The effect of the non-uniform bathymetry on the nonlinear wave dynamics for the freak wave is investigated experimentally, with emphasis on the interrelations between different nonlinear behaviors resulting from various geometric parameters and spectral analysis. Both the frequency modulation and the nonlinear phase coupling can be provoked by the decreasing water depth and weakened after the top peak of the bar, the nonlinear exhibition for transferring energy to high-frequency contents over shoal supports that frequency modulation can reflect nonlinear phase coupling well. The consistent change of the Hilbert energy spectrum and the bicoherence shows that the main nonlinear interaction in the process of wave propagation in shallowing water is quadratic nonlinearity. In addition, the geometric study is conducted to investigate the effect of the water depth on the parametric variations, the research results show that the mean asymmetry and kurtosis change abruptly when the wave approaches the top peak of the bar. As the wave propagates along the water flume, freak waves can be generated at various locations, however, they appear more frequently as waves propagate close to the shallowest water depth, and the maximum probability of occurrence for a freak wave can be up to about 1%.