On the influence of wave breaking on the height limits of two-dimensional wave groups propagating in uniform intermediate depth water
On the influence of wave breaking on the height limits of two-dimensional wave groups propagating in uniform intermediate depth water
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均匀中深水中波浪破碎对二维波群传播高度极限的影响
DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.12.015
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发表时间：
2018
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
M. Allis
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
A. Saket;W. Peirson;M. Banner;M. Allis
Nelson（1994）用于确定波高限制的经验无量纲化使用从最近实验室中恒定深度水中传播的波群研究中收集的数据进行了严格的审查。边缘破碎的深水波和中水波的极限波高与水深之比保持在纳尔逊值的 10% 以内。然而，研究表明，波浪分组的效果可以在较浅的水中产生波浪，其高度比 Nelson (1994) 提出的限制至少高出 30%。本研究支持使用基于 McCowan (1894) 和 Miche (1944) 的极限来进行边缘破碎波和强破碎深水波的海岸工程设计。较浅水域中的三维且更强烈的破碎波可能会产生比本研究中测量的波高更高的波高。本研究提供了比以前通过几何波观测确定的过渡水域破碎的更稳健和普遍的特征。使用与 Saket 等人相同的测量技术。 （2017），我们研究了 Barthelemy 等人提出的突破阈值。 （2018）但对于中等水深的不同类别的非受迫单向波群。发现区分破碎波和非破碎波的阈值参数Bx=Us/C（其中U为波峰处的水平表面水粒子速度，C为波峰点速度）为0.835±0.005，每个数据点的实验不确定度为±0.020。该阈值适用于低至 0.2 的水深与波长比，包括 Saket 等人研究的深水条件。 （2017）。没有发现峰值光谱波数的依赖性。
The empirical non-dimensionalisation of Nelson (1994) for determining wave height limits are critically reviewed using data assembled from recent studies of wave groups propagating in water of constant depth in the laboratory. The limiting wave height to water depth ratios of marginally breaking deep and intermediate water waves remain within 10% of Nelson's values. However, it is shown that the effect of wave grouping can produce waves in shallower water that are at least 30% greater in height than the limit proposed by Nelson (1994). The present study supports use of limits based on McCowan (1894) and Miche (1944) for coastal engineering design for marginal breaking waves and strongly-breaking deep water waves. Three-dimensional and more strongly breaking waves in shallower water may yield wave heights higher than those measured during this study.The present study provides more robust and universal characterisation of breaking in transitional water than previously determined by geometric wave observations. Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (2018) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in intermediate water depths. The threshold parameterBx=Us/C(whereUsis the horizontal surface water particle velocity at the wave crest andCis the wave crest point speed) which distinguishes breaking from non-breaking waves was found to be 0.835 ± 0.005 with the experimental uncertainty of each data point of ±0.020. This threshold is applicable to water depth to wavelength ratios as low as 0.2 including the deep water conditions investigated by Saket et al. (2017). No dependence on peak spectral wavenumber was found.