Numerical Simulation of Irregular Wave Propagation over Shoal
Numerical Simulation of Irregular Wave Propagation over Shoal
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DOI：
10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1990)116:3(324
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发表时间：
1990-05
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
V. Panchang;G. Wei;B. Pearce;M. Briggs
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
V. Panchang;G. Wei;B. Pearce;M. Briggs
在研究波浪传播到近岸海域的水深变换时，工程师们经常引用有效波的概念来表示近海的不规则海况。作为一种近似，规则波列的传播特性（具有等同于有效波的特性）被确定，而不是实际的不规则海况。然而，文森特和布里格斯最近的实验研究表明，对于浅滩对波浪的折射-衍射组合的情况，不规则波和等效规则波（单色）条件的传播特性可能大不相同。与此同时，研究人员正在投入大量精力构建单色波的精确数值折射-衍射模型。虽然单色表示给出了一个差的近似光谱条件，这项研究表明，单色折射-衍射模型可以被用来...
While studying the bathymetric transformation of ocean waves propagating into a coastal region, the engineer often invokes the concept of the significant wave to represent the offshore irregular sea state. As an approximation, the propagation characteristics of a regular wave train (with properties equal to that of the significant wave) are determined, instead of those of the actual irregular sea state. However, recent experimental investigations by Vincent and Briggs have shown that for the case of combined refraction‐diffraction of waves by a shoal, the propagation characteristics of the irregular and equivalent regular (monochromatic) wave conditions can be vastly different. At the same time, researchers are investing substantial effort in the construction of accurate numerical refraction‐diffraction models for monochromatic waves. Although the monochromatic representation gives a poor approximation of the spectral conditions, this study shows that a monochromatic refraction‐diffraction model can be us...