Solitary Wave Runup on Plane Slopes

Solitary Wave Runup on Plane Slopes
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DOI:
10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(2001)127:1(33
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发表时间:
2001-02
期刊:
Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering-asce
影响因子:
--
通讯作者:
Ying Li;F. Raichlen
Ying Li;F. Raichlen
中科院分区:
其他
文献类型:
--
作者:
Ying Li;F. Raichlen

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这项研究处理的是与恒定深度的开放海洋相连的均匀平面海滩上的孤立波的上升。波浪在上升过程中是不间断的。本文通过对经典浅水方程的解析求解,得到了描述海滩上波浪特性的非线性解。结果表明,非线性理论与实验结果吻合较好。非线性理论预测的最大涨落比先前预测的大,修正量在给定坡度的近海相对波高数量级上。海滩上的非破碎波的修正量随着海滩坡度的增大而减小。
This study deals with the runup of solitary waves on a uniform plane beach connected to an open ocean of constant depth. The waves are nonbreaking during the runup process. A nonlinear solution to the classical shallow water equation, that describes the wave characteristics on the beach, is obtained analytically by using a hodograph transformation. It was found that the nonlinear theory agreed well with experimental results. The maximum runup predicted by the nonlinear theory is larger than that predicted earlier and the correction is on the order of the offshore relative wave height for a given slope. This correction for nonbreaking waves on beaches decreases as the beach slope steepens.