Process-response patterns in beach and nearshore sedimentation; I, Mustang Island, Texas
Process-response patterns in beach and nearshore sedimentation; I, Mustang Island, Texas
复制标题
海滩和近岸沉积的过程响应模式；
DOI：
10.1306/212f6e65-2b24-11d7-8648000102c1865d
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发表时间：
1975
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
W. Fox
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
R. A. Davis;W. Fox
在1971年10 - 11月和1972年1 - 2月对美国德克萨斯州野马岛海岸过程进行了两次时间序列研究。风、浪和岸流所显示的模式与在密歇根湖观测到的相似（Davis和Fox， 1972）。在研究期间，控制德克萨斯海岸过程的主要因素是气压。当冷锋（“北风”）向近海方向穿过该地区时，风速和破碎高度会发生大规模波动。随着这些锋面的通过，风向、破碎角和沿岸洋流会发生突变。海滩和近岸地形对波浪和水流的反应与在其他海岸观察到的相似。锋面通过产生的高能条件导致沙洲向海移动和侵蚀，而低能条件允许沙洲向海岸缓慢迁移和堆积。离岸流普遍存在，并可能在沙洲中切割河道。然而，沙洲位置和形状的变化并没有显示出在密歇根湖观测到的规律和循环模式。
ABSTRACT Two time-series studies of coastal processes were conducted along the coast of Mustang Island, Texas during October-November, 1971 and January-February, 1972. Patterns exhibited by winds, waves and longshore currents are similar to those observed in Lake Michigan (Davis and Fox, 1972). The dominating factor in controlling coastal processes along the Texas coast during the periods of study is barometric pressure. Large scale fluctuations in wind speed and breaker height occur as cold fronts ("northers") move across the area in an offshore direction. Abrupt changes in wind direction, breaker angle, and longshore current accompany the passage of these fronts. The responses of beach and nearshore topography to waves and currents are similar to those observed on other coasts. High energy conditions created by the passage of fronts cause seaward displacement and erosion of the sand bar, whereas low energy conditions permit slow shoreward migration and build-up of the sand bar. Rip currents are commonly present and may cut channels in the sand bar. Changes in bar locations and form, however, do not show the regular and cyclic pattern observed in Lake Michigan.