Freak ” waves and large-scale simulations of surface gravity waves
Freak ” waves and large-scale simulations of surface gravity waves
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“怪胎”波与表面重力波的大规模模拟
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通讯作者：
Jingdong Liu
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作者：
K. Dysthe;Hervé Socquet;K. Trulsen;H. Krogstad;Jingdong Liu
远离海底影响和海流折射的开阔海洋上的极端波浪是否可以用最先进的波浪统计数据来解释，或者是否有例外值得称为“反常”或“流氓”波浪？我们相信Socquet-Juglard等人（2004）的大规模数值模拟的一些发现与回答这些问题有关。三维模拟使用的计算域包含通常10 - 4波，从截断JONSWAP频谱与各种角分布，使长峰和短峰波。对于短峰波，表面高程和波峰高度的概率分布与Tayfun（1980）发现的理论分布非常吻合，最大值为5个标准差。在对模拟结果进行了简短的回顾之后，我们试图将它们与北海中部的风暴波数据联系起来。
Can extreme waves on the open ocean, away from bottom influence and current refraction, be explained by state-of-the-art wave statistics, or are there exceptions deserving the names “freak” or “rogue” waves? We believe that some findings from the large scale numerical simulations of Socquet-Juglard et al. (2004) are relevant for answering these questions. The 3D simulations use a computational domain containing typically 10 4 waves, starting from a truncated JONSWAP spectrum with various angular distributions giving both long-crested and short-crested waves. For short-crested waves, the probability distributions of surface elevation and crest height are seen to fit the theoretical distributions found by Tayfun (1980)very well up to 5 standard deviations. After giving a short review of the simulation results, we try to relate them to storm wave data from the Central North Sea.