Effects of Tidal Stage on the Wave Climate Inshore of a Sandbank

Effects of Tidal Stage on the Wave Climate Inshore of a Sandbank
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潮汐阶段对沙洲近海波浪气候的影响

DOI:
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发表时间:
2024
影响因子:
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通讯作者:
J. Rees
J. Rees
中科院分区:
地球科学4区
文献类型:
--
作者:
C. Coughlan;C. Vincent;T. Dolphin;J. Rees

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摘要考夫兰,C.,文森特,C.E.,海豚,T.J.和里斯,J.M.,2007。潮位对沙洲近岸波浪气候的影响。《海岸研究杂志》,SI50(第九届国际海岸研讨会论文集),751-756。澳大利亚黄金海岸,ISSN 0749.0208对近海沙洲的运动与邻近海滩的侵蚀和淤积之间的联系进行了模拟,以更好地了解沙洲和海滩之间的联系,以便为沿海管理提供信息。利用TELEMAC系列数值模式研究了潮位变化对沙洲近岸波浪气候的影响。使用CERC公式计算了海岸泥沙输运,以研究海岸侵蚀/淤积的大小和模式根据潮汐阶段的变化,使用来自最频繁的两个方向的波浪。潮位对近岸波浪气候有显著影响,波高变化最大可达0.5m,沿岸泥沙输移量增加10倍。潮汐高程似乎比潮流起到更重要的作用,波高和沿岸泥沙输移在高水位时最大。近岸冲积形态随波向变化比潮汐变化更强烈。
ABSTRACT Coughlan, C., Vincent, C.E., Dolphin, T.J. and Rees, J.M., 2007. Effects of tidal stage on the wave climate inshore of a sandbank. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 50 (Proceedings of the 9th International Coastal Symposium), 751 – 756. Gold Coast, Australia, ISSN 0749.0208 Modelling of the processes that link the movements of offshore sandbanks to erosion and accretion of neighbouring beaches was undertaken to improve understanding of the links between sandbanks and beaches in order to inform coastal management. The effect of varying tidal stage on the wave climate inshore of a sandbank was examined using the TELEMAC suite of numerical models. Longshore sediment transport was calculated using the CERC formula to investigate changes to the magnitude and pattern of coastal erosion/accretion according to tidal stage using waves from two of the most frequent directions. Tidal stage has a significant impact on the inshore wave climate, varying wave heights by up to 0.5 m and increasing tenfold the magnitude of the longshore sediment transport. Tidal elevation appears to play a more important role than the tidal currents, with wave heights and longshore sediment transport maximum at high water. The pattern of alongshore erosion and accretion varies more strongly with wave direction than tidal stage.