Undressing Cinema: Clothing and identity in the movies
Undressing Cinema: Clothing and identity in the movies
复制标题
脱衣电影：电影中的服装和身份
DOI：
10.5860/choice.35-6138
复制
发表时间：
1997
期刊：
影响因子：
3.8
通讯作者：
S. Bruzzi
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
S. Bruzzi
从纪梵希（Givenchy）的奥黛丽·赫本（Audrey Hepburn），到塔伦蒂诺（Tarantino）电影中衣着光鲜的黑帮，服装是电影的核心。在《脱衣电影》一书中，斯特拉·布鲁齐探讨了服装不仅仅是配饰，而是构建电影身份的关键元素，她提出了电影、时尚和服装史、性别、酷儿理论和精神分析之间新的动态联系。布鲁齐通过对当代流行电影的案例研究，重新评估了电影中关于服装和时尚的既定观念，并挑战了关于男性气质和女性气质如何通过服装构建的传统解释。她广泛的研究包括：*高级时装在电影和电影服装设计师的崛起,从纪梵希高提耶*时期服装的色情电影,如钢琴和纯真的年龄*服装的现代美女单身白人女性,信息披露和最后诱惑*通用的男性时尚好家伙,落水狗,和莱昂*骄傲,“带来”电影中服装和男子气概,小伙子的N罩和新杰克城市*拖在电影院,和性别混乱从《窈窕奶娘》中不带情色色彩的变装到《奥兰多》中充满情色色彩的暧昧。
From Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy, to sharp-suited gangsters in Tarantino movies, clothing is central to film. In Undressing Cinema, Stella Bruzzi explores how far from being mere accessories, clothes are key elements in the construction of cinematic identities, and she proposes new and dynamic links between cinema, fashion and costume history, gender, queer theory and psychoanalysis. Bruzzi uses case studies drawn from contemporary popular cinema to reassess established ideas about costume and fashion in cinema, and to challenge conventional interpretations of how masculinity and femininity are constructed through clothing. Her wide-ranging study encompasses: * haute couture in film and the rise of the movie fashion designer, from Givenchy to Gaultier * the eroticism of period costume in films such as The Piano and The Age of Innocence * clothing the modern femme fatale in Single White Female, Disclosure and The Last Seduction * generic male chic in Goodfellas, Reservoir Dogs, and Leon * pride, costume and masculinity in 'Blaxploitation' films, Boyz 'N The Hood and New Jack City * drag and gender confusion in cinema, from the unerotic cross-dressing of Mrs Doubtfire to the eroticised ambiguity of Orlando.