Self-Assembly of Palmitoyl Lipopeptides Used in Skin Care Products

Self-Assembly of Palmitoyl Lipopeptides Used in Skin Care Products
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DOI:
10.1021/la401771j
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发表时间:
2013-07-23
期刊:
影响因子:
3.9
通讯作者:
Baker, Ellen S.
Baker, Ellen S.
中科院分区:
化学2区
文献类型:
--
作者:
Castelletto, Valeria;Hamley, Ian W.;Baker, Ellen S.

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研究了商品护肤品中使用的三种具有化妆品活性的多肽两亲物C-16-GHK、C-16-KT和C-16-KTTKS(C-16为十六烷基棕榈酰基链)的自组装。使用了一系列光谱、显微和X射线散射方法来探测二级结构、聚集体形态和纳米结构。多肽两亲性(PA)C-16-KTTKS形成扁平的带状和延伸的纤维结构,具有高β-折叠含量。相反,C-16-KT和C-16-GHK呈现晶体状聚集体,在后者PA的情况下,β-折叠含量较低。在小角X射线散射图谱中,这三个PA样品都显示出与双层结构的间距,并且所有三个样品都具有相似的临界聚集浓度,这是由脂链长度决定的。然而,只有C-16-KTTKS被刚果红染色,刚果红是一种用于检测淀粉样蛋白形成的诊断染料,这种PA也显示出高度排列的交叉β-X射线衍射图案,与自组装聚集体中的高β-折叠含量一致。这些发现可能提供与自组装聚集体在这些PA的胶原刺激特性中所扮演的角色相关的重要见解。
The self-assembly of three cosmetically active peptide amphiphiles C-16-GHK, C-16-KT, and C-16-KTTKS (C-16 denotes a hexadecyl, palmitoyl chain) used in commercial skin care products is examined. A range of spectroscopic, microscopic, and X-ray scattering methods is used to probe the secondary structure, aggregate morphology, and the nanostructure. Peptide amphiphile (PA) C-16-KTTKS forms flat tapes and extended fibrillar structures with high beta-sheet content. In contrast, C-16-KT and C-16-GHK exhibit crystal-like aggregates with, in the case of the latter PA, lower beta-sheet content. All three PA samples show spacings from bilayer structures in small-angle X-ray scattering profiles, and all three have similar critical aggregation concentrations, this being governed by the lipid chain length. However, only C-16-KTTKS is stained by Congo red, a diagnostic dye used to detect amyloid formation, and this PA also shows a highly aligned cross-beta X-ray diffraction pattern consistent with the high beta-sheet content in the self-assembled aggregates. These findings may provide important insights relevant to the role of self-assembled aggregates on the reported collagen-stimulating properties of these PAs.