MODELING FORMATION AND SUBSEQUENT NONLINEAR EVOLUTION OF RIP CHANNELS: TIME-VARYING VERSUS TIME-INVARIANT WAVE FORCING

MODELING FORMATION AND SUBSEQUENT NONLINEAR EVOLUTION OF RIP CHANNELS: TIME-VARYING VERSUS TIME-INVARIANT WAVE FORCING
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RIP 通道的建模形成和随后的非线性演化:时变波强迫与时不变波强迫

DOI:
10.1142/9789814355537_0119
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发表时间:
2011
影响因子:
2
通讯作者:
B. Ruessink
B. Ruessink
中科院分区:
地球科学3区
文献类型:
--
作者:
B. Castelle;B. Ruessink

文献摘要

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[1]我们使用一个非线性地貌动力学模型来论证时变强迫,特别是波浪入射角的时变,在裂槽形态、非线性行为、沿岸迁移和平均裂隙间距方面对裂槽的发展是至关重要的。随时间变化的入射角导致的平均撕裂间距不同于时间积分的时不变强迫,并且在更靠近海岸的可变尺度上系统地不发育条状和撕裂形态。这支持了岸边不规则和随机裂隙间距的常见现场观测,并与现有的时不变模板和不稳定性模型预测的规则间距形成对比。随时间变化的波浪入射通常也会导致浅滩的开始分裂和裂隙河道的合并增加。此外,零均值随时间变化的入射角可以驱动裂隙通道沿海岸的显著净迁移。波浪条件的突变是通过波浪条件与沙坝和裂隙形态取向失配的累积效应造成这种净沿岸迁移的。
[1] We use a nonlinear morphodynamic model to demonstrate that time-varying forcing, in particular the time-varying angle of wave incidence, is crucial to the development of rip channels in terms of rip channel morphology, nonlinear behavior, longshore migration, and mean rip spacing. The time-varying angle of incidence leads to different mean rip spacings than the time-integrated time-invariant forcing and to systematically less developed bar and rip morphologies at more alongshore variable scales. This supports the common field observation of irregular and random alongshore rip spacings, and contrasts with the regular spacing predicted by existing time-invariant template, and instability models. Time-varying wave incidence also generally results in the onset of splitting of shoals and an increase in merging of rip channels. In addition, a time-varying angle of incidence with zero mean can drive a significant net alongshore migration of the rip channels. Abrupt changes in wave conditions are responsible for this net longshore migration through cumulative effects of the mismatch between wave conditions and bar and rip morphology orientation.