Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four basic pattern approaches
Developing a basic pattern for a design based on the comparison of four basic pattern approaches
复制标题
基于四种基本模式方法的比较，开发设计的基本模式
DOI：
10.1108/ijcst-03-2021-0038
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发表时间：
2022
影响因子：
1.2
通讯作者：
Takatera Masayuki
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Isaji Ayumi;Kim KyoungOk;Takatera Masayuki
目的探讨四种基本衣身纸样形态及展开方法对女装合体衣外观设计的影响。作者还澄清了日本大学生报告的四种女士紧身衣设计中的首选外观，并提出了使用四种基本紧身衣的首选紧身衣设计的纸样开发方法。设计/方法/方法针对具有指定尺寸的女士紧身衣设计，使用四种基本紧身衣纸样及其开发方法制造了四种女士紧身衣：日本的BUNKA、法国的ESMOD、美国的ARMSTRONG和英国的ALDRICH。观察了四件合身紧身衣的外观，并从轻松和省道方面进行了解释。作者还对15名20多岁的日本女大学生采用语义差异法进行了关于首选衬衫外观的感官测试。作者提出了一种样板开发方法，利用不同的基本衣身，考虑衣片的数量和大小以及衣片前后省道的分配，设计出最佳的合体衣身形状。BUNKA的腰部轮廓略微收缩，ESMOD的轮廓笔直，收缩较少。阿姆斯特朗的轮廓最狭窄，臀部圆润，奥尔德里奇的曲线从胸部到臀部略有收缩。这些形状差异与宽松度和胸衣前后腰省的差异密切相关。日本参与者更喜欢从正面和背面看都有收缩轮廓的紧身胸衣。从侧面看，一条直线在前面和一个收缩的形状和强调臀部在后面的轮廓是首选。通过调整宽松和腰省的分配到前面和后面的胸衣，它是可能的设计，即使有不同的基本模式的首选合身的胸衣形状。独创性/valueIt被发现，胸衣的基本模式和开发方法影响最终的服装。调整衣身前、后的衣幅和省道的配置，采用不同的制样方法来制作服装是必要的。结果表明，在服装设计中，对样板制作方法的考虑比选择一个合适的基本样板更为重要。无论是在基本的制版方法还是在发展方法上，都必须了解腰省的配置和大小、易量的特点。这种方法在制造具有其他国家所需形状的服装制品时也是有用的。
PurposeThe authors investigate the effects of four basic bodice pattern shapes and developing methods on the appearances of ladies' fitted bodice design. The authors also clarify the preferred appearance among the four ladies' fitted bodice design as reported by Japanese university students and propose a pattern developing method of the preferred bodice design using the four basic bodices.Design/methodology/approachTargeting a ladies' fitted bodice design with designated dimensions, four ladies' fitted bodices were manufactured using four types of basic bodice pattern and their development methods: BUNKA from Japan, ESMOD from France, ARMSTRONG from the United States, and ALDRICH from the United Kingdom. The appearances of the four fitted bodices were observed and explained in terms of ease and darts. The authors also conducted a sensory test regarding the preferred shirt appearance adopting a semantical difference method, for 15 female Japanese university students in their twenties. The authors propose a pattern developing method to design the preferred fitted bodice shape using different basic bodices considering the amount and allocation of ease and size and allocation of darts to front and back of the bodice.FindingsThe appearances of the bodices were different even for the same fitted bodice design depending on the type of basic bodice pattern and its developing method. BUNKA had a slightly constricted silhouette at the waist and ESMOD had a straight silhouette and less constriction. ARMSTRONG had the most constricted silhouette and rounded hips and ALDRICH had a slightly constricted curve from the bust to the hips. The shape differences were strongly related to the amount of ease and the difference in waist darts between front and back of the bodice. The Japanese participants preferred fitted bodices that have a constricted silhouette from front and back views. From the side view, a straight line at the front and a constricted shape and emphasized hip at the back silhouette were preferred. By adjusting the allocations of ease and waist darts to front and back of the bodice, it was possible to design the preferred fitted bodice shape even with different basic pattern.Originality/valueIt was found that the basic bodice pattern and developing method affect the final clothing. It is necessary to adjust the allocation of ease and darts to front and back of the bodice to construct clothing using different patternmaking methods. It was shown that it is more important to consider the patternmaking method than to select a suitable basic bodice pattern. It is necessary to understand the characteristics of allocation and amount of ease and the allocation and size of waist darts in both the basic patternmaking method and developing method. This approach is also useful in making an article of clothing with a shape required in other countries.