Breaking waves on beaches
Breaking waves on beaches
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海滩上的波浪
DOI：
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发表时间：
1995
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
P. A. Quinn
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
P. A. Quinn
对两种类型海滩上的波浪破碎速度场进行了全面的实验研究。粒子图像测速仪(PIV)的测量技术一直被用来测量全场、瞬时速度分布。对该技术进行了较为详细的描述，并特别注意了在本申请中使用PIV时所固有的错误。所研究的第一种类型的海滩具有缓坡，这是典型的沙滩。在1：30和1：100的单色波浪平面倾斜海滩上进行了PIV测量。测量的内部运动学与Boussinesqand Serre类型的波浪模型预测的结果进行了比较，有一些很好的一致性。然而，波峰的近表面区域有一些显著的差异，随着海浪沿海滩传播，这些差异有增加的趋势。除了这些理论比较外，还根据PIV测量计算了1：30斜率上的波的积分性质。第二种类型的海滩是典型的砂砾海滩。除了比上一次的情况更陡峭外，这些海滩的轮廓也显示了在风暴条件下形成的海滩的形状。模拟了两个剖面，并在每个剖面上测量了三个不同的单色波。描述了波浪破碎过程，并显示了两个海滩上每个波浪的速度测量结果。此外，为了解释任何潜在的岸上和离岸沉积物运动，还进行了沿每个海滩不同位置的三个波之间的近床速度比较。
A comprehensive experimental study has been carried out to measure the velocity field of waves breaking on two types of beach. The measurement technique of Particle Image Velocimetry (PIV) has been used throughout to measure the fullfield, instantaneous velocity distributions. This technique is described in some detail with particular attention paid to the errors inherent when using PIV in this application. The first type of beach studied has a mild slope, typical of sandy beaches. PIV measurements have been carried out on 1:30 and 1:100 plane sloping beaches with monochromatic waves. The measured internal kinematics are compared to those predicted by the Boussinesqand Serre-type wave models, with some good agreement. However, there are some significant differences in the nearsurface region of the wave crest which tend to increase as the waves propagate up the beach. In addition to these theoretical comparisons, the Integral Properties of the waves on the 1:30 slope are calculated from the PIV measurements. The second type of beach examined is typical of a shingle beach. In addition to being steeper than the previous case, these beaches are also profiled, representing the shape of the beach formed under storm conditions. Two profiles have been modelled and three different monochromatic waves have been measured on each. The wave breaking processes are described and velocity measurements from each wave on both beaches are shown. Furthermore, a near-bed velocity comparison between the three waves at various positions along each beach has also been carried out in order to explain any potential on-shore and off-shore sediment motion.