Orbital velocity and breaking in steep random gravity waves
Orbital velocity and breaking in steep random gravity waves
复制标题
轨道速度和陡峭随机重力波的破裂
DOI：
10.1029/2012jc008024
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发表时间：
2012
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
A. Jensen
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
J. Grue;A. Jensen
[1]强非线性不规则波的PIV实验室测量结果与定向场波的轨道速度计算结果进行了比较。无量纲流体速度除以局部波相速度，该速度由局部波数和波斜率计算得到。30个实验室波的斜率在0.14-0.4的范围内。其中九个波浪的斜率约为0.3，四个波浪中测量到破碎。后向破碎波的局部波斜率小至0.22。测量波浪诱导加速度。用非线性方法计算了两个风暴条件下定向场波样本的轨道速度，并与实验室运动学结果进行了比较。海洋表面流的影响占。野外资料包括局部高程梯度达0.3的波群。具有最长取数的样品表现出与实验室波相似的无量纲轨道速度，包括直到破碎的水平。在其他领域的样本，无量纲流体速度成正比的当地波斜率（高达0.3），速度远低于破碎水平。
[1] Laboratory measurements by PIV of strongly nonlinear irregular waves are compared to orbital velocity calculations of directional field waves. Nondimensional fluid velocities are obtained dividing by a local wave phase speed which is evaluated from a local wave number and wave slope. 30 laboratory waves have slope in the range 0.14–0.4. Nine among the waves have a slope of about 0.3, and breaking is measured in four among the waves. A backward breaking wave has local wave slope as small as 0.22. Wave induced acceleration is measured. Orbital velocity of two samples of directional field waves in storm conditions are calculated by nonlinear method and compared to the laboratory kinematics. The effect of the ocean surface current is accounted for. The field data include wave groups of local elevation gradient up to 0.3. The sample with the longest fetch exhibits nondimensional orbital velocities that are similar to the laboratory waves including levels up to breaking. In the other field sample, nondimensional fluid velocities are proportional to the local wave slope (up to 0.3), and velocities are well below breaking level.