Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Propagation and Runup over Fringing Coral Reefs, Model Evaluation Report
Boussinesq Modeling of Wave Propagation and Runup over Fringing Coral Reefs, Model Evaluation Report
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DOI：
10.21236/ada475195
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发表时间：
2007-12
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Z. Demirbilek;O. Nwogu
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Z. Demirbilek;O. Nwogu
摘要：本报告描述了二维 Boussinesq 型波浪模型 BOUSS-2D 的评估，数据来自关岛和夏威夷群岛的两次实验室实验和两次实地研究，用于计算在岸礁上传播的波浪。模型评估有两个目标：(a) 研究珊瑚礁上波浪变换过程的实验室和现场特征之间的差异，(b) 评估该模型对浅水中具有陡坡和扩展宽度的珊瑚礁系统的总体预测能力。本次评估研究的重点是波浪破碎、底部摩擦参数化以及 Boussinesq 波浪模型的波浪建立和上升能力。在本报告中，讨论了 Boussinesq 波模型的测试过程和性能。由于在撰写本文时尚无法获得实验室和现场研究的详细信息，并且预计这些详细信息将记录在其他报告中，因此仅介绍与数值模型研究相关的数据的一些一般特征。实验室和现场数据的时间序列用于数值模型验证研究。这些数据被转换为波浪能谱密度、有效波高、峰值波浪周期和平均水位设置，以便与模型预测进行比较。测量和模型计算比较的结果以图表形式呈现，并根据需要对模型描述珊瑚礁上不同波浪过程的能力进行讨论进行补充。总体而言，该模型对于实验室数据表现相当良好，最大助跑高度的误差小于 10%。对于现场数据，确定极其粗糙的珊瑚礁表面的波浪能量耗散不能简单地用二次底部摩擦定律来描述。
Abstract : This report describes evaluation of a two-dimensional Boussinesq-type wave model, BOUSS-2D, with data obtained from two laboratory experiments and two field studies at the islands of Guam and Hawaii, for waves propagating over fringing reefs. The model evaluation had two goals: (a) investigate differences between laboratory and field characteristics of wave transformation processes over reefs, and (b) assess overall predictive capabilities of the model for reef systems with steep slopes and extended widths in shallower water. The focus in this evaluation study was on wave breaking, bottom friction parameterization, and wave setup and runup capabilities of Boussinesq wave model. In this report, the testing procedure and performance of the Boussinesq wave model are discussed. Because details of the laboratory and field studies were unavailable at the time of writing, and these are expected to be documented in other reports, only some general features of data pertinent to the numerical modeling study are presented. The time series of laboratory and field data were used in the numerical model validation study. These were converted to wave energy spectral densities, significant wave height, peak wave period, and mean water level setup for comparison to model predictions. Findings from comparisons of measurements and model calculations are presented in figures and tables, and these are supplemented as necessary with discussion of the model's capability in describing different wave processes over coral reefs. Overall, the model performed reasonably well for laboratory data with errors of less than 10 percent for the maximum runup height. For the field data, it was determined that wave energy dissipation over extremely rough coral reef surfaces could not be simply described by a quadratic bottom friction law.