Separation of Shoreline Change Caused by Cross-Shore and Longshore Sediment Transports
Separation of Shoreline Change Caused by Cross-Shore and Longshore Sediment Transports
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跨岸和近岸沉积物输送引起的海岸线变化的分离
DOI：
10.1061/40566(260)20
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发表时间：
2001
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Toshiya Mori
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
Hitoshi Tanaka;Toshiya Mori
自1993年以来，日本仙台海岸的海岸线变化每两周测量一次。海岸线显示出非常复杂的变化，尽管存在两种不同的模式可以观察到的时期：一种是由跨岸沉积物运输引起的，另一种是由海岸沉积物运动引起的。因此，将经验特征函数方法应用于岸线位置数据来检测这些主要模式。值得注意的是，在以往的研究中，该方法用于跨岸海滩剖面，而在本研究中，使用该方法分析海岸线位置。研究发现，实测岸线数据可以成功地划分为两岸输沙和海岸输沙引起的模态，并伴有较小量级可忽略的高模态。优势模态的时间函数与波的特性密切相关。
Shoreline change on Sendai Coast, Japan has been being measured every two weeks since 1993. The shoreline shows very complicated variation, though, there exists periods when two distinct patterns can be observed: one caused by cross-shore sediment transport and the other by longshore sediment movement. Thus, an empirical eigenfunction method is applied to the shoreline position data to detect these predominant modes. It is noted in the previous studies, this method is utilized for cross-shore beach profile, whereas in the present study, shoreline position is analyzed by means of this method. It is found that the measured shoreline data can be successfully separated into the modes caused by cross-shore and longshore sediment transports, accompanied with higher modes with negligibly smaller magnitude. The time-function of predominant modes shows close relationship with wave characteristics.