Vertical structure of flows on a shallow reef flat: A coral reef surf zone
Vertical structure of flows on a shallow reef flat: A coral reef surf zone
复制标题
浅礁滩上水流的垂直结构：珊瑚礁冲浪区
DOI：
10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104499
复制
发表时间：
2024
影响因子：
4.4
通讯作者：
Woodson, C. Brock
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Monismith, Stephen G.;Maticka, Samantha A.;Rogers, Justin S.;Hefner, Ben;Woodson, C. Brock
我们提出了一个一维模型的波浪驱动的流的垂直结构上的浅珊瑚礁和比较，该模型上的珊瑚礁坪上的奥福岛，美属萨摩亚的意见。该模型是基于长期的方法来模拟流结构在海滩冲浪区，包括破碎和破碎的表面波的平均影响。波浪通过辐射应力和正压压力梯度之间的不平衡进入模型，该不平衡存在于波浪波谷以下，该不平衡被湍流剪切应力梯度抵消。假设深度变化的涡流粘度采用明渠水流中的形式，即，抛物线，水平动量方程可以相对于高度积分两次，以导出速度随高度的分布。由此产生的理论相比，位于奥福岛，美属萨摩亚的礁坪上的意见。在涡动粘度模型中使用与均方根波速度成比例的速度尺度，建模剖面与观测相当匹配（平均技能= 0.66），尽管由于匹配观测和理论需要添加取决于均方根波高平方的校正，因此引入了一些模糊性。
We present a 1D model of the vertical structure of wave-driven flows on a shallow coral reef and compare that model to observations made on the reef flat on Ofu, American Samoa. This model is based on longstanding approaches to modeling flow structure in beach surf zones including the averaged effects of breaking and broken surface waves. Waves enter the model through an imbalance between the radiation stress and barotropic pressure gradients that exists below the troughs of the waves, which is offset by turbulent shear stress gradients. Assuming that the depth varying eddy viscosity takes the form found in open channel flows, i.e., a parabola, the horizontal momentum equation can be integrated twice with respect to height to derive the distribution with height of the velocity. The resulting theory is compared to observations made on a reef flat located on Ofu, American Samoa. Using a velocity scale in the eddy viscosity model that is proportional to the rms wave velocity, modeled profiles match observations reasonably well (average skill= 0.66), although there is some ambiguity introduced because matching observations and theory requires the addition of a correction that is found to depend on the square of the rms wave height.
登录
查看更多内容
影响因子：
4.4
作者：
A. Reniers;E. Thornton;T. Stanton;J. Roelvink
通讯作者：
A. Reniers;E. Thornton;T. Stanton;J. Roelvink
影响因子：
2.5
作者：
Oliver, Thomas A.;Palumbi, Stephen R.
通讯作者：
Palumbi, Stephen R.
影响因子：
3.5
作者：
Rogers, Justin S.;Maticka, Samantha A.;Monismith, Stephen G.
通讯作者：
Monismith, Stephen G.
影响因子：
5.2
作者：
D. Sous;S. Maticka;S. Meulé;F. Bouchette
通讯作者：
F. Bouchette
影响因子：
3.7
作者：
Falter JL;Lowe RJ;Zhang Z;McCulloch M
通讯作者：
McCulloch M