A Parabolic Equation Model for Transformation of Irregular Waves Due to Refraction, Diffraction and Breaking
A Parabolic Equation Model for Transformation of Irregular Waves Due to Refraction, Diffraction and Breaking
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折射、衍射和破碎引起的不规则波变换的抛物线方程模型
DOI：
10.1080/05785634.1987.11924463
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发表时间：
1987
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
M. Isobe
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
M. Isobe
建立了一个计算不规则波在折射、绕射和破碎过程中变形的数值模型。该模型建立在缓坡方程的抛物线方程的基础上，附加了能量耗散项，将不规则波视为不同频率和方向的规则波分量的叠加。为了准确计算大范围分量波传播方向的变换，考虑了波传播方向与预定坐标之间的差异，导出了一个新的抛物线方程。作为模拟不规则波破碎变换的第一步，将破碎判据和能量耗散系数表示为有效波对应的参数的函数，并将数值计算结果与现有的解析解进行了比较，结果表明两者具有很好的一致性。文中还给出了应用实例。
A numerical model is developed for calculating the transformation of irregular waves due to refraction, diffraction and breaking. The model is based on a parabolic equation which is derived from the mild slope equation1)with an additional term of energy dissipation.In the present model, irregular waves are treated as a superposition of component regular waves with different frequencies and directions. In order to calculate the transformation accurately for a wide range of propagation directions of component waves, a new parabolic equation is derived by taking into account the difference between directions of wave propagation and a prechosen coordinate. As a first step in modeling the breaking transformation of irregular waves, the breaking criterion and the energy dissipation coefficient are formulated as a function of a parameter corresponding to the significant wave.Results of numerical calculation are compared with available analytical solutions and show a fairy good agreement. Sample results of applications are also shown.