Mass transport in water waves
Mass transport in water waves
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DOI：
10.1029/jc075i036p07611
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发表时间：
1970-12
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
Ü. Ünlüata;C. Mei
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Ü. Ünlüata;C. Mei
重新审视水波中的质量传递理论。边界层参数被纳入拉格朗日运动方程中，并且可以方便地导出单色波和随机波的质量传输速度。对于有限深度，Longuet-Higgins 的结果得到了证实。发现波浪池远端的条件与平均压力梯度有关，并且还获得了真正无限通道的结果。讨论了深水极限解的不均匀性。
The theory of mass transport in water waves is re-examined. Boundary-layer arguments are incorporated into the Lagrangian equations of motion, and the mass transport velocity is conveniently derived for both monochromatic and random waves. For finite depth, Longuet-Higgins' result is confirmed. Conditions at the far end of a wave tank are found to be related to a mean pressure gradient, and results are also obtained for a truly infinite channel. The nonuniformity of the solution for the deep-water limit is discussed.