Rock Climbing Belay Device Analysis, Experiments and Modeling
Rock Climbing Belay Device Analysis, Experiments and Modeling
复制标题
攀岩保护装置分析、实验和建模
DOI：
10.1007/978-0-387-46050-5_13
复制
发表时间：
2006
期刊：
影响因子：
--
通讯作者：
M. Bissuel
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
L. Manin;Matthieu Richard;Jean;M. Bissuel
令人惊讶的是，在攀岩或攀冰中使用的确保装置没有标准。本文介绍了几个确保设备，允许他们的特性和效率方面的比较进行分析。确保装置的特征在于在测试室中测试给定坠落制动的情况下的制动器。这里，确保装置的特征在于其制动系数、绳索通过制动器滑动直到坠落停止以及最后一名运动员上的冲击载荷。制动系数是确保装置的紧侧和松侧上的绳索张力之间的比率。一种被称为“虚拟手”的装置已经被开发出来，它试图在防坠过程中再现确保者手在绳索上的动作，并且它还能够测量制动器上的载荷和控制确保者手侧的绳索张力。通过测量制动器中的绳索滑动和最后一名运动员的载荷来评估坠落制动的强度或残酷性。通过对三个测量特性的分析，可以对六个受试确保装置进行比较。看起来这三个量是相关的，实际上制动系数越大，绳索滑动越低，冲击载荷越高。对于具有高制动系数的确保装置，下落的能量在较短的时间段内被吸收。因此，有效的制动让位于对攀登者的高冲击力和更残酷的坠落阻止。制动器的基本模型已经在一个已经开发的登山者坠落制动模型中实现。将实验结果与数值计算结果进行了比较，结果令人满意.
Amazingly no standard exists for belay devices used in rock or ice climbing. This paper presents an analysis performed on several belay devices that permits their comparison in terms of characteristics and efficiency. The belay device characterization consists in testing the brakes in the case of a given fall arrest in a testing room. Here, a belay device is characterized by its braking coefficient, the rope slip through the brake till the arrest of the fall and the impact load on the last runner. The braking coefficient is the ratio between the rope tensions on the tight and slack sides of the belay device. A device called “virtual hand” has been developed, it tries to reproduce the belayer hand action on the rope during the fall arrest, and it also enables the measurement of the load on the brake and the control of the rope tension on the belayer hand side. The fall arrest intensity or brutality is evaluated from the measurements of the rope slip in the brake and the load on the last runner. The analysis of the three measured characteristics enables the comparison of the six belay devices tested. It appears that these three quantities are related, indeed the larger the braking coefficient the lower the rope slip and the higher the impact load. The energy of the fall is absorbed over a shorter time period for belay device having a high braking coefficient. Therefore, an efficient braking gives way to a high impact force on the climber and a more brutal arrest of the fall. A basic model for the brake has been implemented in an already developed climber fall arrest model. Comparison of experimental and numerical results is made and is satisfactorily.