VARIATION OP LONGSHORE CURRENT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE
VARIATION OP LONGSHORE CURRENT ACROSS THE SURF ZONE
复制标题
整个冲浪区的长岸水流变化
DOI：
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发表时间：
1970
期刊：
影响因子：
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通讯作者：
E. Thornton
中科院分区：
文献类型：
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作者：
E. Thornton
本文用一个简化模型描述了波浪引起的沿岸流在碎波带上的变化。基本假设是：条件是稳定的，海底轮廓是直的和平行的，但允许任意的海底轮廓，波浪可以用线性理论充分描述，碎波带上存在溢出的碎波。质量、动量和能量守恒方程将其分为定常和非定常两个分量，用来描述以一定角度向海滩靠近的浅水波的二阶波致现象。建立了沿岸流的表达式，基于非定常波浪运动引起的过量动量通量的沿岸分量，波浪沉降和沉降，重点分析了工程实用的预测方程，并与室内和现场试验结果进行了比较，结果表明，在假设条件近似满足的情况下，预测结果是比较理想的。
The wave-induced longshore current variation across the surf zone is described for a simplified model The basic assumptions are that the conditions are steady, the bottom contours are straight and parallel but allow for an arbitrary bottom profile, the waves are adequately described by linear theory, and that spilling breakers exist across the surf zone Conservation equations of mass, momentum, and energy, separated into the steady and unsteady components, are used to describe second order-wave-induced phenomena of shoaling waves approaching at an angle to the beach An expression for the longshore current is developed, based on the alongshore component of excess momentum flux due to the presence of unsteady wave motion Wave set-down and set-up have been included in the formulation Emphasis in the analysis is placed on formulating usable predictive equations for engineering practice Comparison with experimental results from the laboratory and field show that if the assumed conditions are approximately fulfilled, the predicted results compare quite favorably.