Nonlinear shallow ocean-wave soliton interactions on flat beaches
Nonlinear shallow ocean-wave soliton interactions on flat beaches
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DOI：
10.1103/physreve.86.036305
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发表时间：
2012-09-06
影响因子：
2.4
通讯作者：
Baldwin, Douglas E.
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Ablowitz, Mark J.;Baldwin, Douglas E.
海浪是复杂的，经常是汹涌的。虽然大多数海浪相互作用基本上是线性的，但有时两个或更多的波浪以非线性的方式相互作用。例如，两个或多个波可以相互作用并产生比原始波高之和高得多的波。大多数浅水非线性相互作用看起来像一个X或一个Y或两个相连的Y;在其他时候，几条线出现在相互作用区域的每一侧。人们认为这种非线性相互作用是罕见的事件：事实并非如此。在这里，我们报告说，这种非线性相互作用每天都发生，接近低潮，在两个平坦的海滩，相距约2000公里。这些相互作用是密切相关的分析，孤子解的一个广泛研究的多维非线性波动方程。在更大的范围内，海啸波可以以类似的方式合并。
Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean-wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much taller than the sum of the original wave heights. Most of these shallow-water nonlinear interactions look like an X or a Y or two connected Ys; at other times, several lines appear on each side of the interaction region. It was thought that such nonlinear interactions are rare events: they are not. Here we report that such nonlinear interactions occur every day, close to low tide, on two flat beaches that are about 2000 km apart. These interactions are closely related to the analytic, soliton solutions of a widely studied multidimensional nonlinear wave equation. On a much larger scale, tsunami waves can merge in similar ways.