Wave runup during extreme storm conditions

Wave runup during extreme storm conditions
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极端风暴条件下的波浪上升

DOI:
10.1029/2010jc006819
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发表时间:
2011
影响因子:
--
通讯作者:
R. Holman
R. Holman
中科院分区:
--
文献类型:
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作者:
N. Sénéchal;G. Coco;K. Bryan;R. Holman

文献摘要

被引文献

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[1]在极端风暴条件下收集波浪爬高的视频测量结果,其特征在于能量长涌浪(峰值时间为16.4 s,离岸高度达6.4 m)撞击陡峭的前滨海滩斜坡(0.05-0.08)。这些条件诱导高耗散和饱和条件下,在低坡度的冲浪区,而冲带与适度反射条件(Iribarin参数高达0.87)。我们的数据支持以前的观测结果,高耗散海滩显示,爬高海拔(估计从能量谱的方差)可以单独使用离岸波高缩放。该数据是一致的,在低频率(低至0.035 Hz)和双曲线切线拟合的助跑饱和的假设提供了最好的助跑海拔的统计预测。
[1] Video measurements of wave runup were collected during extreme storm conditions characterized by energetic long swells (peak period of 16.4 s and offshore height up to 6.4 m) impinging on steep foreshore beach slopes (0.05–0.08). These conditions induced highly dissipative and saturated conditions over the low-sloping surf zone while the swash zone was associated with moderately reflective conditions (Iribarren parameters up to 0.87). Our data support previous observations on highly dissipative beaches showing that runup elevation (estimated from the variance of the energy spectrum) can be scaled using offshore wave height alone. The data is consistent with the hypothesis of runup saturation at low frequencies (down to 0.035 Hz) and a hyperbolic-tangent fit provides the best statistical predictor of runup elevations.