Local food beyond fixed scales and values: The scalar politics of Japan's jidori chicken mosaics
Local food beyond fixed scales and values: The scalar politics of Japan's jidori chicken mosaics
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DOI：
10.1016/j.jrurstud.2020.08.056
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发表时间：
2021
影响因子：
5.1
通讯作者：
Benjamin Schrager
中科院分区：
文献类型：
--
作者：
Benjamin Schrager
人们常常用固定的规模或价值观念来解释当地食物，但这种固定的当地食物观念不可避免地过度简化了当地食物马赛克的多样性。本文发展了标量政治的应用，以加强对形成标量影响和当地食品方面的现状倡议、制度、话语和实践的分析。我通过对日本当地食物的突出标志——鸡道里鸡的案例研究，发展了这种方法。通过档案研究和对关键人物的半结构化访谈，我分析了鸡道里作为一种与当地食物概念相关的手工鸡的出现。政府出台了一项标准，规定了jiidori商业使用的最低限度，并使jiidori对工业和企业的方法清晰可辨。尽管我从秋田县的一个自治市追溯了斋道里的材料和话语结构，直到斋道里在国际高级烹饪中的认可，但我认为，通过斋道里联系起来的地方食物倡议的拼合违背了简单的等级关系。这个非西方背景下的jiidori案例研究有助于动摇英语国家文献中关于当地食物规模和政治取向的普遍假设。本文有两个主要贡献。首先，将标量政治应用于当地食物，更好地识别了当地食物马赛克般的空间纠缠。其次，在超越固定的规模或价值观念的过程中，本文鼓励对非西方背景下的当地食物进行更广泛的探索。
Local food is often explained by drawing on fixed ideas of scale or value, but such fixed notions of local food inevitably oversimplify the diversity of situated local food mosaics. This paper develops the application of scalar politics to strengthen analysis of the situated initiatives, institutions, discourses, and practices that shape scalar impacts and aspects of local food. I develop this approach through a case study of jidori chicken, a prominent symbol of local food in Japan. Through archival research and semi-structured interviews with key actors, I analyze the emergence of jidori as a category of artisan chicken linked to notions of local food. The national government introduced a standard that set minimum levels for the commercial use of jidori and made jidori legible to industrial and corporate approaches. Even though I trace the material and discursive construction of jidori from a municipality in Akita prefecture to jidori's recognition in international haute cuisine, I argue that the mosaic of local food initiatives linked through jidori defies simple hierarchical relationships. This case study of jidori from a non-Western context helps to destabilize common assumptions of local food's scale and political orientation in the Anglophone literature. This article has two main contributions. First, the application of scalar politics to local food better recognizes the mosaic-like spatial entanglements of local food. Second, in moving beyond fixed notions of scale or values, this paper encourages a broader exploration of local food in non-Western contexts.